A fine and rare art deco black lacquer and diamond cuff bangle, by Cartier, circa 1934

The wide, slightly tapering, black lacquer sprung cuff, with pierced geometric terminals of brilliant, single, square and baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in gold and platinum, diamond terminals detach to be worn as dress clips, signed Cartier London, numbered, diameter 5.5cm. Sold for £58,000 plus Premium and tax

Note : In 1934, Cartier launched its black lacquer cuff bangle with detachable diamond clips. The epitome of late art deco style, it was striking, sculptural, bold and modern. The purity of precious white diamonds juxtaposed with the stark black lacquer gloss was a masterpiece in monochrome simplicity and the jewel fast became a best selling line. In London, Paris and New York, customers’ wrist sizes were taken and black lacquer bangles were made to order.

Cartier had realised the potential of the diamond clip from the mid-late 1920s. A versatile jewel, it could be worn in a variety of different ways to decorate the front, back or shoulder of the dress, or it could be pinned to improve the line of the garment. The deceptively simple geometric lines were a foil for the technical artistry, which combined numerous different cuts of diamond in the same piece. The baguette-cut, used by Cartier since around 1912, was combined with the brilliant and square-cut and in the more elaborate jewels, a profusion of up to six different cuts was used. From 1927, Cartier began to patent their double-prong sprung fitting, to ensure the jewel could be worn with maximum confidence and security.

The choice of lacquer, which is a natural resin, for decorating the bangle was not only technically demanding but practical too. The resin which is applied in numerous thin layers, each layer being allowed to dry before the next is painted, dries to a hard, durable finish that is both beautiful and resistant to damage by water, acid, alkali or abrasion. Lacquer work had been perfected by the Chinese and Japanese and been admired by the West from the 17th century and Cartier successfully integrated this difficult technique with the taste for art deco.

By mounting the clips onto a bangle and thereby creating two jewels in one, Cartier ‘fulfilled the trend for justifying a luxury article by its function’ (Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Jewelers Extraordinary, London, 1984). The Wall Street Crash of 1929 had contributed to the worldwide fincancial slump of the 30s, and although paradoxically, this was the decade in which Cartier created numerous masterpieces, transformable jewels helped persuade the buyer that the expense was worthwhile. Customers could commission just bangle fitting to be designed around their existing clip jewels.

The bangle offered here is believed to have been one of the original three designs executed in 1934. It is a rare survivor, not only of the period but because of its size and the excellent condition of the lacquer.

Cf:  The Cartier Collecton Jewelry, with text by François Chaille from notes and writing by Éric Nussbaum, Flammarion, 2004, pp 201-204, for an example in the Collection.
Rudoe, Judy, Cartier 1900-1939, London, 1997, p 61 and pp 330-331, for design drawings of various bangles, one for Mrs H.F. McCormick (Ganna Walska).

Bonhams. Fine Jewellery. 6 December 2007. New Bond Street.