Katharine Hepburn as a feisty Philadelphia socialite wore Verdura jewelry in the 1940 film version of "The Philadelphia Story"; Joan Crawford and Marlene Dietrich were both Verdura devotees, while a curb-link bracelet watch that he made for Greta Garbo became one of her lifelong treasures, often featured in portraits of the actress. (Greta Garbo wearing the Verdura's curb-link watch and bracelet in 18K gold - originally created for her by Verdura)  (photo Verdura)

For Kirsten Everts, Bonhams European jewelry specialist, the seductiveness of Verdura's designs is enhanced by their exclusivity. "The great thing about Verdura is that there simply is less of it, which should, officially, make it more valuable," she said. "Owning a piece of Verdura is a little like having an elite club membership: Once bitten, forever smitten." (Verdura's curb-link watch and bracelet, originally created for Greta Garbo) (photo Bonhams)

At a Bonhams fine jewelry sale in late April in London, one of the rarer lots was an amethyst and aquamarine parure, including a ring, bracelet, pendant earrings and a necklace set with 880 carats of amethysts. Made in 1969 for the American art collector and socialite Bernice Wintersteen, it was not by Cartier, Boucheron, or any of the usual names, but by Fulco Santostefano della Cerda, Duke of Verdura.  (photo Bonhams)

The public face of Hollywood has bestowed an almost mythical status on a select handful of jewelry houses. But off screen, Hollywood's stars, together with high society hostesses and jewelry aficionados, have long revered Verdura as a figure holding a special place in the rarefied world of bespoke jewelry, a reference for both opulence and creative individuality. (Amethyst and aquamarine parure, designed by Verdura)  (photo Bonhams)

A protégé of Coco Chanel, with a list of admirers that ranged from leading actresses, like Greta Garbo and Katherine Hepburn, to aristocrats and royalty, including the Duchess of Windsor and Countess Mona Von Bismarck, Fulco di Verdura was as much a style icon as were his clients. (Detail from amethyst parure) (photo Bonhams)

Born in Sicily in 1898, he was brought up in his grandmother's country house outside Palermo and the jeweler's early life in the Sicilian sunlight, as described in his 1976 autobiography, "The Happy Summer Days," had an important impact on his work. (Verdura's Scallop Shell brooch with Diamond and Sapphire. Verdura was often refered to as the "Shell jeweler.") (photo Verdura)

Large, unsubtle, gemstones, a preference for gold, bright colors and a taste for natural objects found their way first into watercolors, and later into his jewelry. All went directly against the style of the time, which leant towards a delicate white-on-white vogue for platinum and diamonds. (Verdura's Criss Cross Cuffs in White Gold and Yellow Gold - Originally created when Fulco noticed the woven interior of a friend's car.)  (photo Verdura)

It was this non-conformism that first struck Chanel, who was introduced to Verdura at a party in Venice in 1925 by his friends Cole and Linda Porter, whom he had met in Sicily - which had become, in the 1920s, a fashionable destination for the American and European glitterati. (Verdura's Night and Day Cufflinks which were created for Cole Porter, his friend and backer, in tribute to Porter's hit song of the same name)  (photo Verdura)

Chanel commissioned Verdura to help her create her boutique jewelry collection, as well as to rework much of her own personal jewelry. In 1934 Verdura left Paris for New York, and created, in the following year, one of his most iconic works for Chanel: A cuff bracelet, crafted around a Maltese Cross given to her by Grand Duke Dmitri of Russia. (Verdura's Maltese Cross Cuff, originally created for Coco Chanel. Shown in black jade with ruby, diamond, pearl and sapphire.)  (photo Verdura)

Verdura's place in the elite social circles of 1930s and '40s America led to a series of commissions and collaborations with the great and the good of the era. The set of amethyst and aquamarine jewelry offered at Bonhams was created for Wintersteen, a Philadelphia heiress with an art collection that included works by Picasso, Degas and Matisse, using stones that she had discovered and brought back from Brazil with her brother. (Bernice Wintersteen) (photo Bonhams)

In the 1910s and '20s, the hugely popular actress Mary Pickford, known as "America's sweetheart," had captured the spirit of an age that favored the classic elegance of Cartier. But by the 1940s, Americans were looking for something more daring. The ambitious socialite Babe Paley, famed for her unconventional style, was one of Verdura's most ardent admirers - and went on to become his confidante and muse, accompanying him on trips around the world. (Babe Paley and Duke Fulco di Verdura on holiday in Venice, 1963. From the exhibition "All around Fulco di Verdura: The photographs of Milton Gendel") (photo Milton Gendel/Courtesy of Verdura)

Caroline Herrera and Verdura crossed paths when Verdura was living in London and became friends, with Herrera using Verdura jewelry to accessorize her Spring 2007 catwalk show. (Reinaldo & Carolina Herrera on the beach of the Villa Mercedes at Formentor, Majorca, 1976, from the exhibition "All around Fulco di Verdura: The photographs of Milton Gendel" showing May 1 through May 30th at the Verdura Salon)  (photo Milton Gendel/Courtesy of Verdura)

Lire "Fulco di Verdura: The elegant beguiler of stars" de Tara Mulholland http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/05/02/arts/rcajverd.php