Set of three gem-set, enamel, wood and diamond 'Hindou' clip/brooches, René Boivin, circa 1935

Comprising: two clip brooches of flag bearers each with a wooden head with painted features, their clothing and hat studded with cabochon rubies and emeralds, trimmed with similar calibré-cut stones, each holding a polychrome enamelled flag, French assay and maker's marks, together with an ebony elephant and rider, decorated with cabochon emeralds, calibré-cut rubies and emeralds, highlighted with circular-cut diamonds, mounted in gold, signed René Boivin-Paris, French assay and maker's marks. weight 94. Estimate 80,000—115,000 CHF- Lot sold 110,500 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Francoise Cailles, René Boivin Joaillier, Les Éditions de L'Amateur, 1994, page 288 for an illustration of this very set of three clip/brooches, page 355 for an illustration of two similar clips of gem-set and enamel flag bearers and a Scott's Guard all thought to be designed as chess playing pieces.

Cf: Sotheby's Catalogue, Magnificent Jewels, Geneva, 20th November 1991, Lot 306 where the Scott's Guard brooch, by Réne Boivin was sold at auction.

NOTE: Worn by Princess 'Baby' de Faucigny-Lucinge in an illustrated page of French 'Vogue' magazine in 1937, these three small chess-figures are extremely rare and sought-after by true jewellery connoisseurs. They are part of the contemporary taste for Indian fashion and style which inspired the jewellers on both side of the Atlantic and was the source of the production of very fanciful jewelled objects.

René Boivin, who founded the firm under his name in the 1890s, was married to the sister of the celebrated couturier Paul Poiret. Herself a designer, Jeanne Boivin continued the firm after her husband's untimely death in 1917. An isolated woman in a field dominated by men, she gathered around her a first-rate team of female designers beginning with Suzanne Belperron, who remained with the firm until 1933. After Belperron's departure, daughters Germaine Boivin and Juliette Moutard became responsible for some of the firm's most innovative designs of the late 1930s and 40s which were lauded at many international exhibitions. The Duchess of Windsor, Lauren Bacall, King Farouk and Daisy Fellowes were among Boivin's regular clients at their premises at 6 avenue de l'Opera. The firm's pieces were distinctive for their varying textures and combination of materials; Jeanne Boivin was perhaps the first jeweller to introduce wood in her creations.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 19 Nov 08. Geneva. Photo courtesy Sotheby's. www.sothebys.com