Gold and diamond serpent necklace, mid-19th century

Designed as a long, articulated serpent, its open jaws clasping the end of its tail, decorated in the center of the head with an old-mine cushion-shaped diamond weighing approximately 4.00 carats, bordered by clusters of smaller old-mine and single-cut diamonds, the tapering body decorated with circular motifs pavé-set with diamonds as well as with collet-set old-mine diamonds, length 32 inches; together with an additional link. Estimate 150,000—200,000 USD. Lot sold 182,500 USD.

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: The Jeweled Menagerie, Suzanne Tennenbaum and Janet Zapata, p. 40.

The Necklace, Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, p. 111.

NOTE: The serpent motif in jewelry design has a rich history. From ancient times to the present, the snake has alternately symbolized wisdom, life and eternity. The mythological significance of the serpent combined with the design potential of the graceful scale-like body, intrigues us as much today as it did in antiquity. The present necklace, highly flexible and nearly a yard in length, is spectacular example of this design in a jewel.

Over the centuries, jewelers have portrayed the serpent in a variety of styles according to fashion. In the mid-19th century, Queen Victoria brought the vogue for snake jewelry to its peak by wearing a coiled gold and emerald engagement ring. Around this time, necklaces in the form of ouroboros, a snake biting its tail, became popular symbols of eternal love. The articulated bodies, enameled or jeweled in the more extravagant examples, were highly flexible and amazingly lifelike.

At the end the century, Edward VII showed his regard for his mistress, the Honorable Mrs. Keppel, by presenting her with a brooch designed as a diamond-set serpent coiled around a red tourmaline. See Geoffrey C. Munn, The Triumph of Love: Jewelry 1530-1930, p. 94. The brooch was subsequently sold by Sotheby's in New York in December of 2000 as part of the collection of Joan and Melissa Rivers.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 09 Dec 08. New York. photo courtesy Sotheby's. www.sothebys.com