Art Deco emerald and diamond pendant. Circa 1935. Photo courtesy Berganza

A platinum pendant necklace set with one central hexagonal emerald carved with a Mogul style florette and in a rubover collet setting with an approximate weight of 10.00 carats, suspended from an openwork articulated geometric pendant set with one central rectangular baguette cut diamond in a rubover collet setting with an approximate weight of 0.03 carats, and twenty one round eight cut diamonds in bead settings with an approximate total weight of 0.50 carats, on a platinum cable chain with spring clasp, and with an approximate combined diamond weight of 0.53 carats.

This emerald is carved in the traditional style of the Mogul empire, at the height of its power in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries in the Indian subcontinent. The Mogul courts were particularly fond of emeralds, which at the time were mined in present-day Columbia, brought half way around the world via Spanish traders. The hexagonal shape is also typical of Mogul emeralds, utilizing the natural habit of emerald crystals, which under ideal circumstances form in hexagonal columns. During the nineteen twenties and thirties there was a vogue for Indian jewels, and antique stones were often set into Art Deco designs such as this one by western jewellers.

Berganza. 88-90 Hatton Garden London, UK, EC1N 8PN - Phone: 02074300393 - E-Mail: justin@berganza.com