"Bib" necklace, 1965. Gold with emeralds, amethysts, turquoise, and diamonds. 39 x 6 cm. Formerly in the collection of Lyn Revson. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 401 N565. Courtesy of de Young Museum

"I always visit Bulgari because it is the most important museum of contemporary art." – Andy Warhol

SAN FRANCISCO —The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco are pleased to announce The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950–1990, an exhibition of approximately 150 pieces created by the renowned Italian jeweler over four decades. This exclusive exhibition will highlight jewelry that defined a pivotal period in Italian design, and will include many pieces from the personal collection of Elizabeth Taylor. The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950–1990 will be on display at the de Young Museum from September 21, 2013 through February 17, 2014.

Bulgari notably began to create its own trademark in jewelry in the 1960s by embracing boldly-colored combinations of gemstones, use of heavy gold, and forms derived from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths. The company helped to develop a look that would come to be known as the “Italian school” of jewelry design. Pieces in the exhibition display the jeweler’s eclectic creativity and invention during this period.

Works in the exhibition also include those from the 1970s and 80s, a particularly innovative period for the jeweler and one influenced by Pop Art and other contemporary trends. "The hard-edged designs of the 1970s included a whole range based on the Stars-and-Stripes motif, while in the 1980s the Parentesi collection had a smoother, modular, almost architectural presence; both show how the jeweler could lead in new directions with a strong sense of design,” said Martin Chapman, curator in charge of European Decorative Arts and Sculpture at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco.

Bulgari’s successful cultivation of prominent patrons and movie stars like Sophia Loren, Ingrid Bergman, and perhaps most notably, Elizabeth Taylor, has long been a key aspect of the jeweler’s reputation. To help explore the cultural context in which these objects were made, the exhibition will include innovative uses of sketches, photographs, and other archival materials that help to reveal a fascinating intersection of celebrity, design, and fine craftsmanship. 

The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond, 1950–1990 continues the Fine Arts Museums’ strong track record of exhibitions highlighting the work of decisive figures and movements in the world of fashion and design including:Cartier in America, Balenciaga and Spain, Yves Saint Laurent and The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk, among others.

Bulgari. Necklace, 1961 – Platinum with emeralds and diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. Necklace, 1962, with pendant/brooch, 1958. Platinum with emeralds and diamonds. Formerly in the collection of Elizabeth Taylor. Bulgari Heritage Collection, inv. 6676 N2169, 347870 P393. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. Table clock, 1968 – Gold and platinum with lapis lazuli, rubies and diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. ‘Playing Card’ sautoir, 1972 – Gold with coral, mother-of-pearl, onyx and diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. ‘Playing Card’ brooch, ca. 1975 – Gold with mother-of-pearl, coral, onyx and diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. ‘Parentesi’ parure, ca. 1982 – Gold with diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. ‘Tubogas’ choker, 1974 – Two-color gold with Greek silver coins. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. Sautoir, ca. 1973 – Three-color gold with British silver coins and diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. Bracelets, 1955 and 1959 – Platinum with diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. Sautoir, 1969 – Platinum with sapphires and diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

Bulgari. ‘Melone’ evening bag, ca. 1972 – Gold and burnished steel with diamonds. Courtesy of de Young Museum

“The Art of Bulgari: La Dolce Vita & Beyond 1950 – 1990″ at the de Young Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco beginning September 21, 2013.