Lot 125 – A rare art deco diamond, seed pearl, onyx, coral and enamel shoulder brooch, by Cartier, circa 1922-3. Photo Bonhams

The “broche poigneé” or drawer-handle brooch hanger formed of shaped onyx with coral roundel and single-cut diamond terminals, issuing a cascade of five black enamel hoops connected by old brilliant and single-cut diamond buckles, terminating in a detachable delicate seed pearl tassel with onyx bead fringe, the elaborate vari-cut onyx, rose-cut diamond and coral cap suspended from an elongated triangular rose-cut diamond and single seed pearl link, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier Paris, numbered, Renault workshop mark, French assay marks, tassel detaches to be worn as a single pendant on accompanying silk cord, length 17.0cm, fitted Cartier case. Estimate:   $39,000 – $54,000

Provenance: Gifted to the vendor’s grandmother at her marriage in 1923
Direct descent

Notes: Although it is difficult to attribute surviving Cartier jewels to particular designers because of Cartier’s policy of anonymity, we do know that Cartier’s designer Charles Jacqueau (1885-1968) pioneered the firm’s Art Deco style. From the First World War, Jacqueau, inspired by motifs taken from the Ballets Russes, the Gazette du Bon Ton and Egyptian, Assyrian, Persian, Indian, Islamic, Japanese, Greek and Chinese civilisations, designed elegant jewels that gave the impression of floating on air. His instruction to the workshops advised “surtout très léger” (above all very light). This delicate brooch is a lesson in masterly workmanship and understated elegance. The deceptively simple fusion of linear-geometric decorative motifs with bold colour combinations, the juxtaposition of precious and semi-precious gems and the numerous cuts and shapes of stones set into the variously shaped platinum component parts are the hallmarks of Jacqueau’s vision and of Cartier’s innovative Art Deco designs.

See Hans Nadelhoffer, “Cartier”, Thames and Hudson, 2007, page 134 for Jacqueau’s designs for shoulder brooches, in particular an onyx and seed pearl tassel pendant, 1922.

For a diamond, seed pearl, onyx and coral pendant of similar inspiration, made by Cartier Paris in 1922, see exhibition catalogue “The Art of Cartier”, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, 24 October 2012 – 17 February 2013, number 241.

Bonhams. Fine Jewellery. London, New Bond Street. 18 Sep 2013 - www.bonhams.com