Magnificent jewels at Christie’s Geneva on May 13

10 avril 2015

Magnificent jewels at Christie’s Geneva on May 13

Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

GENEVA – Christie’s announces highlights of its May 13 auction of Magnificent Jewels in Geneva. The sale is led by the historically important Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage brooch, which was presented as a wedding gift from King Alfonso XII of Spain to his wife, the Archduchess Maria Christina of Austria in November 1879 (illustrated above). The auction will showcase over 351 spectacular jewels and among the highlights of the important colourless and coloured diamonds is a pear-shaped D-color Flawless diamond of 55.52 carats (estimate: US$8,500,000 – 10,500,000), a rectangular-cut Fancy Vivid Pink diamond of 5.18 carats (estimate: US$9,500,000 – 12,500,000) and an Ashoka-cut D-color Flawless diamond ring of 21.75 carats (estimate: US$2,800,000 – 3,500,000).

Furthermore, the rich array of exceptional gemstones is highlighted by The Pride of Burma, a cushion-shaped Burmese ruby and diamond ring of 6.25 carats (estimate: US$1,800,000 – 2,500,000), Royal Emeralds of India: a pair of antique emerald Indian bangles (estimate: US$1,500,000 – 2,000,000), and a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire of 35.09 carats (estimate: US$ 3,000,000 – 4,200,000).

The sale is expected to achieve in excess of US$80 million.

HISTORIC AND ANTIQUE JEWELS

Christie’s is proud to offer a particularly refined section of historically significant and antique jewels spanning from the 18^thto the 20^th centuries. Among the numerous properties featured in the sale is the highly important diamond devant-de-corsage brooch, given as a wedding present in November 1879 by King Alfonso XII of Spain to his wife the Archduchess Maria Christina of Austria (illustrated left), soon to be Queen Consort and then Queen Regent of Spain. Presently in collection of Baroness Thyssen-Bornemizsa, Christie’s looks forward to offering collectors this exciting opportunity to own an incomparable jewel. Additionally, a pair of antique emerald Indian bangles are believed to have descended from one of the more prominent Indian Royal families that were known to have some of the most superb collections of emeralds in their treasury. Set with large emeralds of exceptional richness of color, they would have been worn spaced with other gem-set bracelets in the style that would have been particularly in accordance with the fashion of the Art Deco period in the 1920s and 1930s and are accompanied with fitted red leather cases embossed with a gold B on each of them. They are one of the few old Indian jewels that have not been taken apart for their gem content and offer the rare opportunity to own a piece of history in its original condition.

The Maria Christina Royal Devant-de-Corsage Brooch, circa 1879. Estimate $1.5 – 2 million. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

IMPORTANT DIAMONDS & RARE GEMSTONES

The selection of important coloured and colourless diamonds and rare gemstones for sale at Christie's Geneva in May will present numerous gems of true magnificence and rarity. The offering is led by a pear-shaped D-color Flawless diamond of 55.52 carats along with an exceptional cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire of 35.09 carats. In November 2014, Christie’s Geneva established a new world auction record for any sapphire with the sale of The Blue Belle of Asia, which realized SFr.19,965,000 / US$17,305,997. For pink diamond lovers, the auction features a rectangular-cut Fancy Vivid Pink diamonds weighing 5.18 carats (est. $9.5 – 12.5 million).

Lot 323. An exceptional pear-shaped 55.52-carat D Flawless Type IIa diamond. Estimate CHF 8,500,000 - CHF 10,500,000. Price realised CHF 8,453,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

The pear-shaped diamond weighing approximately 55.52 carats, in red leather fitted case.

Accompanied by report no. 1162568312 dated 24 October 2014 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the diamond is D colour, Flawless clarity, with Excellent Polish and Excellent Symmetry and a Diamond Type Classification letter stating that the diamond is Type IIa.

Lot 351. An exceptional cushion-shaped 35.09-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring. Estimate CHF 3,000,000 - CHF 4,000,000. Price realised CHF 6,885,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

Set with a cushion-shaped sapphire, weighing approximately 35.09 carats, to the triangular-cut diamond shoulders and baguette-cut diamond hoop, mounted in gold, ring size 4½

Accompanied by report no. 77675 dated 1 December 2014 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating, and an additional comment stating that this colour variety of sapphire may also be called 'Royal Blue' in the trade, together with an Appendix stating that this sapphire has an '..attractive and saturated blue colour and outstanding purity. Its vivid blue hues are further pronounced by its well-proportioned cutting style and multiple internal reflections'.
Report no. 14100349 dated 29 October 2014 from the Gübelin GemLab stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating, an Information Sheet on 'Unheated sapphires' and an Appendix stating that this sapphire '.. possesses a richly saturated and homogeneous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency, and finely proportioned cut.'
Report no. CS 63856 dated 16 October 2014 from the AGL American Gemological Laboratories stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating, and a letter stating that the sapphire '.. possesses the quintessential, velvety blue color that distinguishes a top-quality sapphire from this auspicious source. Traditionally, stones of this color have been described as having a "cornflower blue" hue.'

Provenance: Christie's New York, Magnificent Jewels, 25-26 October 2000, lot 772.

Lot 350. A magnificent rectangular-cut 5.18-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond ring. Estimate CHF 9,500,000 - CHF 12,500,000. Price realised CHF 10,021,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

Set with a fancy vivid pink rectangular-cut diamond, weighing approximately 5.18 carats, within an oval-shaped diamond surround, mounted in gold, ring size 6

Accompanied by report no. 2165887854 dated 7 January 2015 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 5.18 carat diamond is Fancy Vivid Pink colour, VS2 clarity

Eight reports dated 2014 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the oval-shaped diamonds are weighing 0.59 to 0.50 carat, are E to F colour, Internally Flawless to VS1 clarity

Exceptional sapphires, rubies and emeralds also count among the impressive sale highlights, including Royal Emeralds of India: a pair of antique emerald Indian bangles (est. $1.5 – 2 million), and The Pride of Burma: a 6.25-carat cushion-shaped Burmese ruby (est. $1.8 – 2.5 million).

Lot 314. Royal Emeralds of India. A pair of antique Colombian emerald Indian bangles. Estimate CHF1,500,000 - CHF 2,000,000. Price realised CHF 1,625,000 © Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

Each set with twenty-three graduated rectangular-cut emeralds, in a raised openwork scrolling gold mount, 1900s, India, inner circumference 16.2 cm, each in a red leather fitted case bearing the initial 'B'

Accompanied by report no. 79094 dated 18 March 2015 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the 46 emeralds are of Colombian origin, with indications of none to moderate amount of oil, and an Appendix letter for the 'Exceptional Pair of Emerald Bangles' stating that 'The pair of emerald bangles is exceptional not only due to the matching quality of their colour and quality, but also based on the provide information, due to the fact that they have remained in pristine original condition for over one hundred years.' (2)

Provenance: Christie's New York, Magnificent Jewels, 19 October 2005, lot 389
Christie's Geneva, Magnificent Jewels, 16 November 1989, lot 609.

Emeralds of India
History sometimes makes inextricable links between places and gemstones, as India shows. Although the Spanish controlled the great emerald mines of Colombia throughout the apogee of their production from the 16th to the 18th century, most of the output was exported to India to be used for jewels commissioned by the Royal families.

When these stones appeared in Western markets in the early 20th century, they became known as Old Indian Material. The Indian character of the emeralds set in these superb antique bangles is accentuated by their cut and also their rich color that was much favored by the Royals.

In India, the emerald has always been one of the most treasured of all gemstones and since the days of the Mughal Emperors, they have been fashioned into every possible form of objects and wearable jewellery. From exquisitely carved wine cups and amulets to magnificently decadent necklaces, ear pendants and of course bangles.

In the first half of the 20th century, the Princes of modern India, descendants of the Mughal rulers, began to have some of their beautiful emeralds re-cut and re-set by the leading jewellers of Paris, London and New York. Many of the stones had first been drilled and smoothed, others were carved in the shape of leaves, fruits and flowers. It was said that the Indian jewel merchants forced the European dealers, including the houses of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, to purchase large quantities of the smaller carved emeralds if they wanted more important gems that now appear in the market from time to time.

The present bangles, set with large emeralds of exceptional richness of color would have been worn spaced with other gem-set bracelets in the style that would have been particularly in accordance with the fashion of the Art Deco period in the 1920's and 30's. Accompanied with fitted red leather cases and embossed with a gold 'B' on each of them, they have possibly descended from one of the more prominent Indian Royal families that were known to have some of the most superb collections of emeralds in their treasury. They are one of the few old Indian jewels that have not been taken apart for their gem content and offer the rare opportunity to own a piece of history in its original condition.

The Pride of Burma: 6.25-carat cushion-shaped Burmese ruby and diamond ring. Estimate $1.8 – 2.5 million. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

ICONIC JEWELS

Formerly from the property of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis comes a pair of ruby and diamond ear pendants and matching ring, by Van Cleef & Arpels (estimate: US$250,000 – 350,000). Presented as a wedding gift by Aristotle Onassis in 1968, Mrs. Kennedy can be seen wearing the ear pendants in the image above.

Ruby and Diamond Ear Pendants, by Van Cleef & Arpels, formerly the property of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Estimate $250,000 – 350,000. Photo: Corbis.

JEWELS BY JAR, NATURAL PEARLS, AND MORE

In November 2014, Christie’s Geneva achieved the second highest price ever at auction for a jewel by JAR for a gold, diamond, and green garnet “Parrot Tulip” bangle, which sold for a SFr. 3,525,000/ US$3,595,853 against a pre-sale estimate of SFr. 190,000 – 290,000. On May 13, Christie’s is delighted to offer an early example of the artists work – a pair of tourmaline and agate camellia brooches, circa 1985 (estimate: US$140,000 – 170,000). Moreover, offerings of important jewels from the most coveted jewelry houses such as Cartier, Graff, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston along with a large single-strand natural saltwater pearl necklace (estimate: US$2,500,000 – 3,500,000) highlight the remainder of the sale.

Lot 270. A pair of tourmaline and agate camellia brooches, by JAR. CHF130,000 – CHF160,000. Price realised CHF 485,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2015.

Each designed as a sculptural flower, centering upon a circular-cut diamond, within brilliant-cut diamond collet pistils, to the carved pink tourmaline and white agate petals, mounted in platinum and gold, 1985, 6.5 cm, with French assay mark for gold, in pink leather JAR fitted case - Unsigned (2)

Literature: JAR I, Exhibition at Somerset House, London, November 2002-January 2003, no. 270

Exhibited: Jewels by JAR, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, November 2013- March 2014, no.22