A chestnut embroidered gauze 'dragon' robe, Jiaqing period. Estimate US$ 60,000 - 80,000 (€53,000 - 71,000). Photo: Bonhams.

The fine silk gauze of a soft chestnut color, couched with four five-clawed front-facing dragons each encircling a flaming pearl on the front, back and shoulders, four further five-clawed dragons on the lower register and another on the inside flap, all amongst woven tasseled peaches, scattered sprays of red nandina or narcissus with lingzhi fungus amidst cloud scrolls, the deep hem woven with jagged peaks rising through foaming waves supporting chrysanthemum and precious objects, the sleeves of ribbed dark blue silk and the horseshoe cuffs with dragons and bats above waves, the lining also of chestnut gauze. 56 3/4in (144cm) long

Notes: Delicate silk gauze was favored for summer wear by the Manchu court, in contrast to the heavier silk robes suitable for colder weather. Despite its fineness, the fabric nevertheless supports and complements the intricate embroidery and retains the formal shape required for robes of the Imperial family and high-ranking officials. 

The present example is particularly unusual for the details embroidered amongst the cloud scrolls, including the combination of nandina (天竹 tianzhu), narcissus (水仙 shuixian) and fungus (靈芝 lingzhi), symbolizing the birthday wish 'May the immortal fungus bestow longevity', 芝仙祝壽 zhixian zhushou. In this rebus the narcissus and fungus represent the 'immortal fungus' and the second character of nandina a pun for 'congratulate', 祝 zhu. The combination of references to long life suggest that the robe may have been worn to celebrate an important birthday. 

Compare a chestnut gauze robe, dated to the Qianlong period, sold at Christie's Hong Kong, sale 3322, 28 May 2014, lot 3345, and another dated to the Jiaqing period sold at Sotheby's Hong Kong, 9 October 2007, lot 1331. 

BONHAMS. CHINESE PAINTINGS AND WORKS OF ART, 14 Sep 2015 10:00 EDT - NEW YORK