Lot 128. A 56.06 carats Tajikistani spinel, pearl and diamond necklace. Estimate £100,000 - 150,000 (€130,000 - 190,000). Unsold. Photo Bonhams.

The octagonal mixed-cut red spinel, weighing 56.06 carats, with an old brilliant-cut diamond surmount, on a row of graduated pearls, diamonds approximately 1.30 carats total, necklace length 50.5cm

Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the spinel is of Tajikistani origin, with no indications of any treatment. Report number 83139, dated 7 December 2015.

Note: "There is also.. an other kynde of Rubies which wee caule Spinelle". Richard Eden, the 16th century alchemist, in 1555.

Until 1783, red and pink spinels were mistaken for rubies because they are chemically similar. Even after fine pink gems were known to be spinels they were still referred to as "balas" or "balais" rubies. The term "balas" derives from an ancient word for Badakhshan, a province north of Afghanistan on the border with Tajikistan, where important spinel specimens were anciently mined. These Kuh-i-Lal ('red mountain') mines were the world's main source of large spinels from the 1st century AD. Marco Polo (c1254–1324) described how "fine and valuable balas rubies" were dug only for the King, who owned the entire supply, which he sent to other kings as tributes or as "friendly presents". 

Mughal emperors and their ancestors, the Timurids, valued large Kuh-i-Lal spinels for their beauty and as protective talismans, regarding them as "glorious" and "good". The gems were polished rather than cut and were often inscribed with the names of rulers and monarchs as a way of commemoration. The Carew Spinel, in the collection of the V&A in London, is inscribed with the names of Emperors Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. Spectacular Mughal spinels which entered Persian, Russian and European royal treasuries include the "Black Prince's Ruby": a large uncut red spinel, it was given to the Black Prince by Pedro the Cruel in 1367, worn by Henry V in his helmet at the Battle of Agincourt and is now set in the Imperial State Crown in the British Crown Jewels. The 361-carat "Timur Ruby", also in the British Crown Jewels, was owned by Sultan Sahib Qiran and Ranjit Singh, the "Lion of the Punjab". A huge polished spinel decorates the Imperial Crown of Russia, made for the coronation of Catherine the Great in 1762.  

In the 19th century, important spinels were cut according to European ideals. It is likely that the impressive spinel in this necklace was fashioned from a huge polished crystal gem because it still retains a drill-hole, presumably from which it was once simply threaded onto a rope or cord in traditional manner. 

Other large spinels of similar cut mounted in 19th century jewellery include:
- the "ruby" jewels of Queen Therese in the Munich Treasury, a mixture of rubies and spinels mounted in 1830 from the collection of Elector Max III Joseph. 
- the "Bagration" jewels, now in the collection of the Duke of Westminster, which are Russian-made 19th century diamond and spinel jewels formerly owned by Catherine Bagration, a Russian princess. 
- the Hope Spinel, a 50 carat spinel, mounted in a diamond brooch setting, sold at Bonhams London in September 2015. 

Bonhams. AUCTION 23401: FINE JEWELLERY, 12:00 BST - LONDON, NEW BOND STREET