From the beginning, Renaissance and Byzantine art informed the Chanel jewelry oeuvre and, as with the present lot, was often designed in collaboration with Robert Goossens. Goossens would become Chanel’s chief jewelry designer in 1960 and remained closely associated with designs of Byzantine inspiration throughout his career, particularly Chanel’s signature Maltese Cross. Decades later, these same motifs appeared in costume jewelry on the runways of YSL, Lacroix and Dior. But, as with cotton jersey, ropes of pearls and the little black dress, Chanel did it first. And best.