26 décembre 2017
Epaulette (diamond rose). Christian August Globig & August Gotthelf Globig, Dresden, between 1782 and 1789

Epaulette (diamond rose). Christian August Globig (before 1747-1798), Jeweler & August Gotthelf Globig (before 1769-after 1819), jeweler. Dresden, between 1782 and 1789. 20 large and 216 smaller diamonds, silver, gold. 22.0 x 7.0 cm. Green Vault, VIII 11. © Dresden State Art Collections.
Between 1782 and 1789, the rose cut diamonds received their new version. Already in 1749, Jean Jacques Pallard had begun to recast the set in the meanwhile out of fashion rose cut. However, due to unfavorable political developments, the project of a complete new production of the diamond rose garniture could not be completed. Even before the outbreak of the Seven Years War, the work was stopped. It was only in January 1767 that the extensive inventory of diamond roses remaining with Pallard was brought back to Dresden by Heinrich Taddel, Inspector of the Green Vault. 1761 commissioned Elector Friedrich August III. Christian August Globig with the production of a new diamond rose set. The court jeweler worked with the jewel treasure together with his son August Gotthelf. They were based on the already existing parts of the Brillantgarnitur, where the underarm band became the main item. From Diespachs Hutagraffe with the Dresden Greens they took over the loop motif of the upper hat head. The result was a piece of jewelery of remarkable composition and consistent design, which is one of the most beautiful early classicist works at the Dresden court. The central motif of the epaulette is the double loop with the main stone. It is the largest rose cut diamond ever found in the set. In 1719, he had adorned as the main stone the hat brim Augustus the Strong. The upper loop, which also includes an unusually large diamond, conveys two bands, each with four large diamond roses. Most of the diamonds are already detectable in the jewel inventory of 1719. On the heavily worked back of the epaulette the respective stone weight is engraved on the frames. With Globig's attached fixations, the heavy jewel was attached to the robe.
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