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26 décembre 2017

Hat brim (ruby set), Johann Friedrich Dinglinger, Dresden, 1736 (changed before 1817)

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Hat brim (ruby set), Johann Friedrich Dinglinger (1702-1767) (jeweler). Dresden, 1736 (changed before 1817). 6 rubies and spinels, 6 doublets, 96 brilliants, gold, silver, partly gold plated; 11.4 x 5.4 cm. Green Vault, VIII 124 © Dresden State Art Collections.

As part of the princely representation, the headgear played a special role as Ranganka. In the court ceremonial was exactly determined who was allowed to wear a hat and before whom he had to draw him. Hat brims consisted of a main button (lower hat button), which was attached directly to the open brim and so was very close to the wearer's face. That's why this button was usually adorned with a very beautiful and large gemstone. The unusual bridge, which Dinglinger himself called "completely new and finished in a special way," connected the lower hat button with the upper hat button, which was fixed to the headboard of the hat. The gemstone trim of the top button slightly surmounted as a crowning the felt of the royal hat and was especially visible in the movement of the head. The stones for this hat brim all came from the stock at that time. Dinglinger must have known her before planning this piece of jewelery and finally planned it purposefully. The hatagraff commissioned and produced in 1736, however, had a different appearance. The stocking with twelve red gemstones was first recorded in the 19th century without further explanation.
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