Lot 489. Suite of yellow diamond, onyx, emerald and diamond jewels, 'Sherkhan', Cartier. Estimate 1,170,000 — 1,700,000 CHF. Lot sold 1,450,000 CHF. Photo: Sotheby's.

Comprising: a bangle designed as a tiger with an articulated head, pavé-set with brilliant-cut yellow diamonds, onyx, pear-shaped emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds, inner circumference approximately 165mm; a ring designed as a tiger's head similarly set, size 52; and a brooch designed as a tiger on a branch, suspending a detachable drop set with a brilliant-cut diamond of yellow tint and a briolette fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 5.05 carats, capped with circular-cut stones; each signed Cartier, numbered, French assay and maker's marks, cases signed Cartier. 

Literature: Cf.: Nadine Coleno, Amazing Cartier, Creations since 1937, Paris, 2008, pg. 58 for a reproduction of a similar brooch from the Collection 'Inde Mystérieuse', 2007. 

Cf.: The Art of Cartier, exh. cat., 24 October 2012 - 17 February 2013, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid, pgs. 323-324 for examples of 'Tiger' jewels.

Note: Jeanne Toussaint, the enlightened director of Haute Joaillerie at Cartier between 1933 and 1970, affectionately called “la Panthère” by Louis Cartier, was responsible for the evolution of the panther motif, present in Cartier production since 1914, into the three dimensional creations loved and made fashionable by the Duchess of Windsor. Following the success of the first examples created for the Duchess, relying on the design skills of the brilliant Pierre Lemarchand, Toussaint oversaw the production of a series of beautiful and varied 'Great Cat' jewels for the international jet set. Daisy Fellowes, Princess Nina Aga Khan and Barbara Hutton are just a few of the women who fell under the spell of Cartier's tigers and panthers in the 1950s and 1960s. 'Great Cat' jewels are still en vogue at Cartier and contribute to the image of the brand worldwide. 

The name 'Sherkhan' (or Sherkan, Shere Khan) refers to The Jungle Book written by Rudyard Kipling in 1884. The word Shere (or shir) means "tiger" or "lion" in Persian, Urdu, and Punjabi, and Khan translates as "sovereign", "king" in a number of languages influenced by the Mongols, including Pashto. Shere Khan is Mowgli's enemy in The Jungle Book.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, Genève, 11 nov. 2015.