An Emerald and Diamond Brooch, by Cartier. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2013

Of fibula design, the pavé-set old-cut diamond curving panel with calibré emerald line detail, to a fluted emerald or diamond terminal at either end, circa 1920, French marks for platinum, 9.1cm wide, original maker’s case. Signed Cartier, Paris, no.C8082. Estimate:  $45,270 – $60,360

Literature: Cf. Nadelhoffer, Hans, Cartier Jewelers Extraordinary, Thames and Hudson, London, 1984, p.195 for a brooch design similar to this lot

Notes: The fibula motif pervaded Cartier’s brooch and clasp designs throughout the Art Deco period. Produced in an array of forms including the crossbow-fibula and jabot-pin, the above lot represents the simplest variety being of stylised safety pin design (the broche nourrice). This was initially introduced in 1895 first in white gold, later in platinum and during the 1920s was revived with the use of favourite stones of the period such as coral, onyx and as in this case emerald and diamond.

Christie's. JEWELLERY. 5 June 2013. London, King Street.