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A cuff bracelet (detail), by Buccellati, circa 1960s, the 18ct two colour gold hinged bangle designed in the form of overlapping realistically modelled oak leaves and acorns, the cups in textured silver, signed ‘Buccellati, Italy, 750’, bangle width 48mm, weight 142gm. Estimate: £6,000 - £8,000

LONDON.- Some of the most famous makers of jewellery and watches such as Buccellati, Cartier, Andrew Grima, Graff , Rolex and Patek Philippe will be among the highlights of the first sale to be held by the new jewellery department at the Mayfair-based auctioneers Dix Noonan Webb on 15 March 2016. The auction is the start of an important new chapter in the history of Dix Noonan Webb, which over the past 26 years has established itself as one of the world’s leading specialists in coins, tokens, paper money, medals and militaria. 

“We have been overwhelmed by the positive welcome and good wishes we have received from so many since opening the new Jewellery Department at the end of last year and we look forward to adding a new dimension to this highly regarded and professional auction house,” says Frances Noble, head of the Jewellery Department. She and her colleague Laura Smith, who between them have 35 years’ experience in the jewellery auction business, set up the department at Dix Noonan Webb last November after joining the company from Bonhams. 

“With other London auctioneers raising their entry thresholds ever higher, we wish to offer our clients a much broader service, giving them the opportunity to sell their jewellery at all levels of the market. DNW’s state-of-the-art cataloguing and auction system enables clients’ goods to be previewed online immediately after the lot has been photographed and catalogued. Our very accessible website provides full descriptions, highly detailed multiple images and condition reports on every lot. With competitive vendor charges, we aim to offer the highest level of service to our customers.” 

A cuff bracelet by the renowned Italian jewellers Buccellati will be among the many fine pieces in the auction and is expected to fetch £6,000 to £8,000. The 18 carat two colour gold hinged bangle, dating from the 1960s, is designed in the form of overlapping, realistically modelled oak leaves and acorns, with the cups in textured silver. Buccellati is famous for its rich textural gold jewellery and its finest pieces are bold and immediately recognisable. 

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A cuff bracelet, by Buccellati, circa 1960s, the 18ct two colour gold hinged bangle designed in the form of overlapping realistically modelled oak leaves and acorns, the cups in textured silver, signed ‘Buccellati, Italy, 750’, bangle width 48mm, weight 142gm. Estimate: £6,000 - £8,000

A diamond and gem set ‘open and shut flower’ brooch by Cartier, circa 1965, is estimated at £5,000 to £7,000. The flowerhead has articulated petals that open to reveal trembling stamen claw set with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies, the stem with a sliding mechanism highlighted with a single ruby.

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 A diamond and gem set ‘open and shut flower’ brooch by Cartier, circa 1965, the flowerhead with articulated petals opening to reveal ‘tremored’ stamen claw set with diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies, the stem with sliding mechanism highlighted with a single ruby, the petals and stem of wirework composition, with two pin clip fitting to the reverse, signed ‘Cartier’, numbered ‘015538’ to the pin mount and ‘2627’ to the stem, with two French assay marks to the pin, length 8cm. Estimate: £5,000 - £7,000

For collectors of antique jewellery, highlights include a rare late 18th century blue paste brooch/pendant and ear pendant suite with an estimate of £2,000 to £3,000. The pendant is of sévigné design suspending a circular cluster drop, set throughout with pale blue paste, and mounted in silver. 

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An 18th century blue paste brooch/pendant and earpendant suite, the pendant of Sévigné design suspending a circular cluster drop with foliate surround and further pear-shaped cluster drop below, together with matching earpendants ensuite, set throughout with pale blue paste, mounted in silver with coloured foil backs, the brooch double stuck with French boar’s head assay mark and lozenge maker’s mark, the earrings similarly marked, the earrings with later loop fittings,brooch length 10.2cm, earpendant length 6.4cm, in a later gold tooled red leather case, the interior silk signed ‘Franklin, 37 Duke St, St. James’s’. Estimate: £2,000 - £3,000

An impressive diamond ring with a cut-cornered rectangular stone weighing 4.03 carats is estimated at £8,000 to £10,000, while another single stone diamond ring set with a brilliant weighing 2.58 carats is expected to sell for £7,000 to £9,000.

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A diamond ring, the cut-cornered rectangular diamond, colour K, clarity SI1, weighing 4.03 carats between tapered baguette set shoulders, platinum mounted and hallmarked for London 1989, maker’s mark ‘DB’ to inner shank, ring size P. Estimate £8,000-10,000

The principal diamond has been unmounted and verbally assessed by the Gemmological Certification Services confirming Colour K, Clarity SI1. The platinum mount and shank have very light polishing lines and minimal surface wear only.

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A single stone diamond ring, the brilliant-cut diamond, colour I, clarity VSI2/SI1weighing 2.58 carats, in 18ct white gold claw/split collet crossover style mount, the shank hallmarked for Birmingham, 2000, also bearing European convention mark and maker’s mark ‘DOM’, ring size J. Estimate £7000-9000.

The modern brilliant-cut diamond with an estimated clarity of VSI2/SI1, and an estimated colour of I. The mount has a high polish but with some surface wear in keeping with use. Gross weight is 7gm.

Among the watches in the auction will be an 18 carat gold Oyster Perpetual Rolex wristwatch, circa 1949, in its presentation case, estimated at £2,500 to £3,500.

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An 18ct gold Oyster Perpetual wristwatch, by Rolex, circa 1949, the signed silvered dial applied gilt Roman numerals and dot hour markers and inner calibrated seconds scale, centre sweep second hand, automatic movement signed and numbered ‘96258’, ‘55554’ and ‘F-34235’, the case with screw down ‘bubble’ back, signed and stamped ‘18k, 750’, with Swiss marks, signed crown, on black leather strap with gilt Rolex buckle, in green Rolex presentation case, dial diameter 28mm. Estimate: £2,500 - £3,500