A gold, enamel and gem-set bracelet, by Carlo and Arthur Giuliano, circa 1900

The articulated bracelet, set with twelve various step-cut gemstones, the name of each enamelled in white to one side of the bracelet, and with further black and green enamel detail to the other side, each stone connected by triple bar links highlighted with a seed pearl and enhanced with further delicate white enamel work, maker's mark 'C&AG' in an oval lozenge, length 18.3cm., fitted case by C&A Giuliano, 115 Picadilly, London - Estimate: £10,000 - 15,000

Footnote: The inspiration for the design of this bracelet came from the Holy Bible, the Book of Revelation (Chapter XXI: verses 19-21).

“The foundations of the wall of the city were adorned with every kind of jewel. The first was jasper, the second sapphire, the third agate, the fourth emerald, the fifth onyx, the sixth carnelian, the seventh chrysolite, the eighth beryl, the ninth topaz, the tenth chrysoprase, the eleventh jacinth, the twelfth amethyst. And the twelve gates were twelve pearls, each of the gates made of a single pearl, and the street of the city was pure gold, transparent as glass.”

At the end of the nineteenth century, jewellers began to look for new sources of inspiration for their jewellery. Literature became one source that they chose. The bracelet displays each of the stones used in the building of Paradise, set in the order they are mentioned and separated by twelve seed pearls to represent the gates of Paradise. The overall setting of the bracelet being gold, to represent the streets of Paradise.

Literature: Cf: ‘Castellani and Giuliano: Revivalist Jewellers of the Nineteenth Century’, by Geoffrey C. Munn,1983, plates 141 and 142 for a bracelet of similar design.

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Bonhams. Fine Jewellery, 24 Apr 2008. New Bond Street