Photo: Marcio Madeira

Alors quoi ? Qu'est-ce qui nous reste ? Vaut-il mieux rester coucher ? Après tout... Everyday is like Sunday chantait Morissey. Et pour Yohji, c'est aussi un peu la même chose : à quoi bon s'habiller, sortir, si dehors le climat nous est hostile (crise, tempêtes et grand tracas). Yohji propose cette option relaxante : après les pyjamas parties de Sex in the City, c'est entre hommes que nous demeurerons, habillés de longs manteaux, mis à l'envers, de longs shorts presque comme des jupes et en pyjamas à pois. Le créateur japonais a imaginé non sans humour la panoplie d'un homme désabusé mais toujours chic allant chercher sa baguette de pain un dimanche et s'habillant avec tout le décontracté nécessaire avant la prise d'un café fumant. Pour les traders ayant encore l'imagination de s'habiller plus relax le vendredi (Friday Wear), le Sunday Wear de Yohji est bien plus amusant car il permet de mettre son caleçon griffé d'un tigre (un tigre sous le moteur ?) sans dessus-dessous et de foutre les principes du bon usage à la porte. Artiste, indéfiniment bourgeoise-bohême et plus légère que d'habitude, la collection Homme Yohji renoue avec ses (bonnes) étoiles du passé, un style presque misérabiliste construit avec la science luxe de cet homme secret. www.menstyle.fr

Yohji Yamamoto's seasonal analyses of the trials and tribulations of modern man rarely yield anything that is less than thought-provoking. In recent seasons, Yohji Man has been by turn defiant and distracted. Here, he seemed exhausted—or, at the very least, ready to take to his bed. One character ambled down the catwalk in striped pajamas, fluffy slippers, and a big hooded robe, like he was popping out to the local boulangerie for his Sunday morning baguette. Hang on—he'd already bought it. There it was, under his arm. Other bedroom references included the quilted comforter transmogrified into a jacket, and the bathrobe doing double duty as an overcoat. The idea of insidewear turned outside was pursued in striped boxer shorts worn over trousers. Most of them were printed with growling big cats. Down, Tiger! (Coats were also worn inside out. May we assume the subtext here is that the wearer has nothing to hide? Not an item we can expect to see Bernard Madoff wearing anytime soon, then.)

But the definitive piece in the collection was the skort, the kiltlike combination of skirt and shorts that is rapidly turning into a modern classic. It definitely looked that way in combination with Yohji's oversize jacket, as a new kind of urban tribal uniform. By the way, a shout-out to the knitwear. Huge swathes of wool are a trend this season, and I can't imagine them getting any huger than Yohji's cardigan coat over an equally chunky sweater.— Tim Blanks www.menstyle.com