Gold, Gem-Set and Diamond Bangle, Before 1896

The hinged bangle applied with floral and foliate motifs set with variously shaped gemstones including opals, emeralds, sapphires, pearls, rubies, turquoise, highlighted at intervals with rose-cut diamonds, to a matt gold ground, inner circumference 160mm, 56 Zolotnik mark, St Petersburg, work masters mark AH. Estimate 10,000—15,000 GBP

NOTE: Pearls untested.

The maker's mark appears to be that of August Wilhelm Holmström (1828-1903). Born in Finland, Holmström moved to St Petersburg shortly after 1840 and became apprenticed to the jeweller Herold; a journeyman in 1850 he was made a master in 1857. The same year he acquired the workshop of Frederik Hammarström and was engaged by as chief jeweller of the firm recently established by Gustav Fabergé. Holmström continued in this capacity under Peter Carl Fabergé who took over his father's business in 1872.
Very little of the jewellery made by the firm of Fabergé at its outset may be confidently identified. The absence of a distinct house style, as well as imprecise markings and the loss of original fitted cases all contribute to this uncertainty. In his memoir, Franz Birbaum, who became the firm's chief designer in 1893, described the early work: "fashionable but crude gold bracelets, brooches and pendants in the shape of belts with buckles, quite skillfully combined and set with gems or enamelled: examples of such jewellery are to be found among old designs of the firm". Evidently later work bore little resemblance to what preceded it.
This bangle could be a rare surviving example of the firm's early production. In its stylistic debt to west-European influences, it is entirely consistent with the prevalent fashion of St Petersburg; in its execution, in particular the finely finished hinge and clasp, it reveals the "exquisite technique" later credited to Holmström; and thirdly, the maker's mark is clearly legible.

Sotheby's. Fine Jewels. 19 Mar 09. London www.sothebys.com photo courtesy Sotheby's