A Spectacular Emerald-Cut Diamond. The emerald-cut diamond weighing 100.20 carats, mounted in platinum. Sold for $22.1 million / CHF 21.2 million / HK$172.3 million ($220,459 per carat). Photo: Sotheby's.

NEW YORK, NY.- Today’s sale of Magnificent Jewels at Sotheby’s achieved $65 million / CHF 62.5 million / HK$507.7 million, marking a new record total for a jewelry auction at the Company’s New York salesroom. The auction was led by an extraordinary 100.20-carat ‘Perfect Diamond’ in a classic Emerald-cut, which sold for $22.1 million / CHF 21.2 million / HK$172.3 million ($220,459 per carat). This result garners several superlatives for the D color, Internally Flawless, type IIa stone: it marks the largest perfect diamond with a classic Emerald-cut ever sold at auction; the first 100+ carat perfect diamond sold at auction in New York; and the highest price for any colorless diamond auctioned in New York. 

Lisa Hubbard, Chairman, North & South America, Sotheby’s International Jewelry Division, commented: “This diamond is exceptional in every sense of the word, and we were thrilled to see it achieve such a strong result. The stone captivated people around the world throughout our extensive travels this spring, but it was a particular privilege to offer it at our New York headquarters. Including today’s result, only six perfect diamonds weighing over 100 carats have sold at auction in the last 25 years – a testament to the incredible rarity of these stones. Sotheby’s sold five of those spectacular diamonds, including sales in Geneva, Hong Kong, and now New York.” 

Gary Schuler, Head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York, said: “It was encouraging to see the impact of private collectors throughout the day, including at the highest end of our sale: eight of our top ten pieces were purchased by private individuals. Our strong results spanned each of the categories that have driven the auction market in recent seasons: top-quality diamonds and gemstones, signed and historic jewels, and pieces with notable provenance. Online bidding and buying also contributed heavily to our record total, including the second-highest price of the day: $3.3 million for a magnificent 22.30 carat DIF diamond ring.” 

HIGHLY-IMPORTANT DIAMONDS 

Property of a Prominent Collector. A Magnificent Platinum and Diamond Ring. Oval-shaped diamond of 22.30 carats, D color, Internally Flawless, type IIa. Sold to an online bidder for $3.3 million / CHF 3.1 million / HK$25.2 million.  Photo: Sotheby's.

Lot 362. A Magnificent Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Fancy Purplish Pink Diamond and Sapphire Ring. Estimate 2,500,000 — 3,500,000 USD. Sold for 2,410,000 USD / CHF 2.3 million / HK$18.8 million. Photo: Sotheby's.

Centering a pear-shaped Fancy Purplish Pink diamond weighing 6.24 carats, flanked by two cushion-cut sapphires weighing 2.44 and 2.36 carats, size 6.

ccompanied by GIA report no. 2115454890 stating that the diamond is Fancy Purplish Pink, Natural Color, VVS2 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating that the diamond has been determined to be Type lla.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 15025110 stating that the 2.44 carat sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 45029 stating that the 2.44 carat sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 15010021 stating that the 2.36 carat sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 65106 stating that the 2.36 carat sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

CELEBRATED PROVENANCE 

Lot 364. The Baron de Rothschild Necklace. An Elegant and Rare Platinum, Emerald, Sapphire, Lapis Lazuli and Diamond Pendant-Necklace. Designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924. Estimate $1,800,000 — 2,200,000. Sold for $2.6 million / CHF 62.5 million / HK$20.2 million. Photo: Sotheby's.

In the style of Mughal Empire art, the necklace combining elements of Indian and Persian decorative traditions, the pendant suspending a hexagon-shaped emerald, an oval-shaped sapphire and a pear-shaped emerald, all carved with Mughal floral motifs, completed by a necklace composed of 41 sapphire beads, spaced by 80 lapis lazuli beads and diamond-set rondelles, further applied with diamond and lapis lazuli accents, length 29 inches, adjustable, signed Cartier, Paris, numbered 0310, with French assay and partial workshop marks; circa 1924.

Provenance: Baron Eugène de Rothschild.

Exhibited: Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century, Denver Art Museum, Denver, Colorado, November 16 2014-March 15, 2015.

Note: Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 13055035 stating that the 41 sapphire beads and one carved sapphire are predominantly of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

A profile in a 1932 edition of  Vogue stated that, ‘The Baronne de Rothschild is one of the small group of women in the world who are internationally known for their great chic. Her taste in clothes, in jewels, and in houses is faultless, and she is a person of outstanding distinction among the women of the present generation.’ When one observes the magnificent sapphire and emerald pendant necklace, purchased from Cartier in 1924 by the Baron Eugène de Rothschild for his new bride, it is evident that is was once in the collection of a world renowned tastemaker. Marking an important moment in the history of Art Deco jewelry design, this Cartier piece becomes all the more iconic when you look at the woman behind the jewel.

Portrait of the Baroness de Rothschild. Carl Oscar August Erickson / Vogue; ©Condé Nast

Born Catherine Wolff in Philadelphia, ‘Pretty Kitty’ as she was known was always destined to live a lavish international lifestyle. After studying music in Munich, she lived in New York with first husband Dandridge Sportswood, often traveling and socializing in Paris and London. In 1911 Catherine married Count Erwin Schoenborn of Austria; they met in Paris and resided in Vienna. Upon the end of her marriage to Schoenborn in 1924, Catherine married the Baron Eugène de Rothschild, of the famed international banking family. The present Cartier design dates to the same year, and was possibly a gift to celebrate the marriage.

It comes as no surprise, given the cities and the social circles in which the Baroness resided, that she was often celebrated as one of the best dressed women of the time. In 1937 a group of elite French designers including Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and Jeanne Lanvin (amongst others) named the Baroness de Rothschild the 5th best dressed woman in the world. That year the list was topped by Mrs. Harrison Williams (later known as the Countess Mona von Bismarck). In 1938, Rothschild was named the 4th best dressed woman in the world, only to be surpassed by the Duchess of Kent, the Duchess of Windsor and Madame Antenor Patiño (who topped the list). Around this same time, after abdicating the throne in 1936, the Duke of Windsor stayed with the de Rothschilds at their castle in Enzesfeld, Austria. While the Duke waited to marry Wallis Simpson, newspapers across the globe went wild accounting for each step he took within the Rothschild estate. The Baron and Baroness de Rothschild were one of the few guests invited to attend the 1937 wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, who made several trips back to Enzesfeld after their nuptials. By 1940 the Baron and Baroness had moved to New York; the Baron made his journey in August and the Baroness followed in October after a brief stay in Lisbon. According to an October 6, 1940 article in the Chicago Tribune, ‘She carried with her a collection of jewels, declaring their listed value at more than $100,000.’

Likely hand carried by the Baroness de Rothschild on her journey from Lisbon to New York, the sapphire and emerald necklace by Cartier has a design as striking and modern as the day it was purchased in 1924. Created by Cartier’s chief designer Charles Jacqueau, a frontrunner of the bold Art Deco aesthetic, this jewel perfectly blends Eastern and Western motifs by modernizing the blue and green ‘peacock patterns’ often seen Mughal jewels and artwork. Suspending three important Mughal stones carved with floral motifs, the larger emerald is framed within a geometric lapis lazuli and diamond border. Composed of graduated Kashmir sapphire beads spaced by lapis lazuli and diamond rondelles, the length of the necklace would have perfectly suited the columnar dresses of the 1920s, yet maintains the same contemporary elegance when worn in the present day.

Property from a Private Collection. An 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France. Sold to an online bidder for $1 million / CHF 990,000 / HK$8 million. Photo: Sotheby's

Designed as a stylized flower, this brooch dating from the 1960s and set with a sapphire of approximately 17 carats, was formerly in the collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon. 

MAJOR GEMSTONES

Lot 165. From the Estate of Mary Lily Kenan Flagler, Thence by Descent. The Flagler Emerald. An Important Platinum, Emerald and Diamond Pendant. Estimate $1,000,000 — 1,500,000. Sold for $2.8 million / CHF 2.7 million / HK$21.6 million. Photo: Sotheby's

Suspending an emerald-cut emerald weighing 35.02 carats, topped by four old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately .35 carat.

Accompanied by AGL report no. CS 66540 stating that the emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: insignificant, type: traditional.

Before he married Mary Lily Kenan, New York native Henry Flagler first visited Florida in the winter of 1878. Flagler instantly saw potential in the state, which at the time had less than half a million residents, and was struck by the stunning ocean views and serene breezes the state offered.

Moving methodically down the east coast of Florida Flagler began buying land and creating fantastical destination hotels, resulting in revenues previously unseen in the state. At the end of the 19th century Flagler was the force behind the modern creation of the resort towns and cities such as Lake Worth, Palm Beach and Miami, in addition to being the creator of the consolidated Florida East Coast Railway, a system that included the first Over-Sea Railroad all of which helped build tourism to Southern Florida down through the Florida Keys.

In August of 1901, Henry Flagler married Mary Lily Kenan, a socialite from the philanthropic Kenan family of Kenansville, North Carolina. The home and life they created together was an American Beaux-Art dream, complete with an impressive home in Palm Beach Flagler named Whitehall, described at the time by the New York Herald as, “… more wonderful than any place in Europe, grander and more magnificent than any other private dwelling in the world.” Today Whitehall has been turned into the well- known Flagler Museum that pays homage to the impact Henry Flagler had on his beloved state. Unfortunately, the couple was married only until Flagler’s sudden passing in 1913, making his young bride the wealthiest widow in America.

With the wealth boom that the Industrial era brought, so came the opulence into the lives of those such as Henry Flagler and his family. Jewelry of that period was typically very ornate with a much more sophisticated use of platinum than ever before seen. Women were suddenly encouraged to wear ropes of pearls and garland style necklaces along with important gemstones set in brooches, in rings, in tiaras and in pendants.

This magnificent emerald pendant, owned by the couple, is a testament to the wealth and richness of the early 20th century in America. While simple in design, the setting was created to showcase the impressive gemstone, highlighting its impressive deep green hues with just a slight diamond accent. Stated as being of Classic Colombian origin by the American Gemological Laboratory, this emerald displays the most desirable qualities the Colombian mines can offer, and is in keeping with the level of quality and luxury the Flagler name is still known for today.

A Superb Platinum, Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Cartier, New York, circa 1915. Sold to an online bidder for $1.9 million / CHF 1.9 million / HK$15.1 million. Photo: Sotheby's

The cushion-cut sapphire weighing 11.90 carats, accompanied by Gubelin Gem Lab Report stating that the stone ‘possesses a richly saturated and homogenous color, combined with a high degree of transparency, and a finely proportioned cut’