TILBURG.- From Chanel to Dior to Valentino, lace has been a source of inspiration for countless prestigious fashion houses. The TextielMuseum presents the international exhibition ‘The Art of Lace | Haute Couture from Chanel to Iris van Herpen’, featuring creations by the world’s most renowned names in fashion. Opening on 16 November, the exhibition portrays the innovative power of French Leavers lace and was previously on show in Calais. The visitor is given a behind-the-scenes look at lacemakers and couturiers: from the design and manufacture to the finished product, ready for the catwalk.

The show includes almost 50 one-of-a-kind items by fashion greats Alberta Ferretti, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Iris van Herpen, Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela, Schiaparelli, Valentino and Yiqing Yin.

Designer: Maison Margiela. Collection: Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2012. Photo: Fred Collier | Ville de Calais (Haute Dentelle).

Leavers: innovation in lace
Woven on a loom, Leavers lace can accommodate the experimental designs of couturiers while also challenging them to the utmost in creating their collections. The fabric looks delicate but is actually quite strong: unlike knitted lace, it does not fray. It can be transparent or opaque, can incorporate varying patterns, materials and colours, and can be woven in 3D. For Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld laminated the lace, allowing the stiffness of the material to accentuate the patterns, while Iris van Herpen is inspired by lace in 3D printing that mimics the effect of this ornate fabric.

Jacket in tweed and skirt in hand-cut Leavers lace with a floral motif. Designer: Karl Lagerfeld for CHANEL. Collection: Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Photo: © CHANEL, photography Karl Lagerfeld

Behind the scenes of haute couture
The ‘The Art of Lace’ exhibition offers an intimate insight into haute couture and illustrates the close dialogue between the Leavers lacemakers and the fashion designers. While fashion houses usually keep their suppliers and techniques secret, this exhibition reveals the complete process behind each haute couture piece, with video's and samples to admire and even touch. The process of lacemaking and couture is one of continuous development and innovation. ‘The Art of Lace’ is a tribute not only to the vision of the fashion designer, but also the creativity and skill of the lacemaker, showcasing the journey from thread to fashion show in a unique way.

Designer: CHANEL. Collection: Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 2016. Photo: Robin.

he development of lace
Originally handmade, the lace was extremely costly due to the slow and intensive labour involved. The onset of the industrial revolution in England in the beginning of the 19th century sees the development of various lacemaking machines, including the Leavers loom. After the machine was smuggled to the north of France, a rich industry develops around the Leavers technique. The arrival of knitted lace and changing tastes in fashion mean that from the 1960s, the craft is under threat because of the technical complexity and high costs. These days only a handful of specialist lacemakers produce the Dentelle de Calais-Caudry, making fabrics for the biggest fashion houses in Paris and beyond.

Designer: Alberta Ferretti. Collection: Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Photo: Robin (Haute Dentelle)

Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier. Collection: Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. Photo: Robin (Haute Dentelle).

Designer: Iris van Herpen. Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. Photo: Team Peter Stigter.

Designer: Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel. Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017 collection. Photo: © CHANEL, photography Karl Lagerfeld

Designer: CHANEL. Photo: Fred Collier | Ville de Calais (Haute Dentelle)

Designer: Louis Vuitton. Cruise collection 2018. Photo: Fred Collier | Ville de Calais (Haute Dentelle).

Designer: Dior. Collection: Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2018 collection. Photo: Java/Ludwig Bonnet