Lot 131. A gem-set and enamelled turban ornament (sarpech), India, late 19th-early 20th century; 13.5 by 9.5cm. Lot sold: 88,200 GBP (Estimate: 50,000 - 80,000 GBP). © Sotheby's 2022

the openwork hinged body set with foiled diamonds and a large central carved emerald, topped with a curling jigha and hanging emeralds, a row of pearls running along the upper border, the reverse with polychrome enamelled floral details, suspension cords with seed pearls.

Note: The jigha has three stems curling outwards, two towards one side and one addorsed. This particular design is unusual and can be compared to examples dated to the 1910s. Maharaja Tukojirao Holkar III of Indore, in a photograph dated 1911, is wearing a sarpech with a similar jigha (published in Jaffer 2013, p.214). Another even closer example is the ornament worn by Sir Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala (1891-1938) in a series of photographs dated 1911 now in the National Portrait Gallery, London, inv. no. NPG x98674 to NPG x98678. The sarpech has both a similar jigha and a row of pearls running along the upper border.

Sir Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala (1891-1938), 1911 (B/W photo), Pictures from History / Brideman Images

The jigha has three stems curling outwards, two towards one side and one addorsed. This particular design is unusual and can be compared to examples dated to the 1910s. Maharaja Tukojirao Holkar III of Indore, in a photograph dated 1911, is wearing a sarpech with a similar jigha (published in Jaffer 2013, p.214). Another even closer example is the ornament worn by Sir Bhupinder Singh, Maharaja of Patiala (1891-1938) in a series of photographs dated 1911 now in the National Portrait Gallery, London, inv. no. NPG x98674 to NPG x98678. The sarpech has both a similar jigha and a row of pearls running along the upper border.

Sotheby's. Arts of the Islamic World & India including Fine Rugs and Carpets, London, 30 March 2022