Yellow sapphire and diamond brooch, Verdura

Designed as a bombé heart set with oval yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, accented with a stylised ribbon bow of rope twist design, mounted in yellow gold, signed Verdura. Estimate 30,000—40,000 CHF

NOTE: One of the 20th Century's most innovative designers, Fulco di Verdura was born into an aristocratic and eccentric Sicilian family in 1898. As a child he was surrounded by lush gardens, fruit trees and a variety of animals that fired his imagination and would continue to inspire him throughout his life. After a few years in Paris designing jewellery for Coco Chanel, Verdura decided to try his luck in America, armed with a list of social contacts. In 1939, encouraged by Cole and Linda Porter, he opened his first salon on Fifth Avenue in New York. Entirely by word of mouth, as he did not advertise, Verdura could count the Duchess of Windsor, Diana Vreeland, Clare Booth Luce, Marjorie Merriweather Post and Daisy Fellowes, as well as many stars of stage and screen, as devoted clients. Today the legacy of Verdura continues at 745 Fifth Avenue where owner Edward Landrigan runs the salon in the manner consistent with Verdura's own philosophy.

The wrapped heart is a classic Verdura design. An example in cabochon rubies and diamonds is illustrated in The Master Jewelers, edited by Kenneth Snowman, p. 228

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 19 Nov 08. Geneva. Photo Courtesy Sotheby's. www.sothebys.com