12 août 2012

Hommage à Paul Poiret by Vogue

Photo courtesy Vogue
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21 juillet 2012

Paul Poiret (born 1879 - died 1944), Mantle, ca. 1913

Paul Poiret (born 1879 - died 1944), Mantle, ca. 1913. Hand-sewn yellow wool and black chiffon. Museum number: T.165&A-1967. Victoria & Albert Museum © V&A Images. This mantle is made of bright yellow wool and lined with black chiffon. Based on a deconstructed kimono, it is composed of two rectangles folded on the shoulders and joined on one side with a stylised bow. It illustrates how Poiret was able to combine with rare harmony the bold colours of Fauvism, the vision of Cubism and the... [Lire la suite]
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21 juillet 2012

Paul Poiret & Raoul Dufy (textile), Evening Cape, 1925

Paul Poiret & Raoul Dufy (textile), Evening Cape, 1925. Orange "lamé" jacquard with print. Inventory Number(s): AC9362 96-24-1.  ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Richard Haughton The design of the artist, Raoul Dufy, is depicted on this one, large piece of cloth, realized by the Bianchini-Ferier company. Dufy, who had been working to become an artist, met Paul Poiret and began designing textiles. He left many textile works, and was a pioneer of artist-designed textiles. Aiming for the... [Lire la suite]
21 juillet 2012

Paul Poiret, Coat "Mandarin", c.1923

Paul Poiret, Coat "Mandarin", c.1923. Black wool twill with chain-stitch embroidery of chrysanthemum, bird, and wave motifs; wing collar; lining of black "crêpe de Chine". Inventory Number(s): AC6382 89-18. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Richard Haughton Like a picture, this wool coat is decorated with Beauvais embroidery all over. Fine chain stitch was used to create motifs of bamboo fences with chrysanthemums, cocks, pine trees, water patterns, clouds and waterfalls. The word "mandarin" originally meant a... [Lire la suite]
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21 juillet 2012

Poiret. Party Costumes for "La mille et deux nuits".

Poiret. Party Costumes for "La mille et deux nuits". Gold "lamé" and purple silk satin jacket with fake pearls and black fur; gold "lamé" hat with fake pearls and aigrette plume. & gold "lamé" silk harem pants; black silk gauze hoped overdress with gold floral embroidery; gold-embroidered belt. Inventory Number(s): AC9330 96-15 [Left]AC9175 94-40-2AB [Right]. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama These are precious exampled dressed for "La mille et deux nuits," a masquerade party held by Paul Poiret.... [Lire la suite]
21 juillet 2012

"Kimono coat". Coat. Paul Poiret, c. 1909

"Kimono coat". Coat. Paul Poiret, c. 1909. Black silk satin; kimono sleeve; rectangular flat form like kimono; crochet and bobbin lace; black lace lapel with tassel; yellow silk "habutae" lining. Inventory Number(s): AC3777 81-8-3. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Richard Haughton Paul Poiret called this item a "kimono coat." The pieces constructed the coat were cut straight. Poiret introduced loose-fitting silhouette coats like this example at the same time as the "Lola Montez" dress in 1906 and the directoire dresses in... [Lire la suite]
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21 juillet 2012

Evening Dress. Paul Poiret, 1910-1911

Evening Dress. Paul Poiret, 1910-1911. Beige silk satin dress with silk tulle overdress; embroidery of polychrome beads and gold thread; gold tulle peplum. Inventory Number(s): AC2388 79-20. ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama In 1906, when the S-curve silhouette was still overwhelmingly popular, Poiret introduced high waist corsetless dresses. He shifted the fashion trend substantially from 19th-century dresses in artistic forms with excessive decoration toward innovative clothing that accentuated the... [Lire la suite]
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21 juillet 2012

Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944), Opera coat, 1912.

Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944), Opera coat, 1912. Yellow and pale blue silk satin, black silk velvet, turquoise silk satin with gold and silver filé crocheted overlay, and silver filé trapunto half-belt and trim. L. at CB 16 1/2 in. (41.9 cm). Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Bequest, 1982 (1982.350.2). Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York © 2000–2012 The Metropolitan Museum of Art Of all his collaborations with artists, Poiret was proudest of his introduction of Paul Iribe to a wider audience through the... [Lire la suite]
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21 juillet 2012

Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944), "Irudrée" Gown, ca. 1923. Silk, metal.

Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944), "Irudrée" Gown, ca. 1923. Silk, metal. L. at center back 52 in. (132.1 cm). Purchase, Friends of The Costume Institute Gifts, 2007 (2007.146). Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York © 2000–2012 The Metropolitan Museum of Art Paul Poiret's technical and commercial innovations were fundamental to the emergence and development of modernism. Yet despite ushering in the new movement, Poiret rejected its postwar embrace of the aesthetic of the engineer governed by functional rationality. In... [Lire la suite]
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21 juillet 2012

Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944). Evening Dress, 1910

Paul Poiret (French, 1879–1944). Evening Dress, 1910. Forest green and ivory striped silk, black silk chiffon, white cartridge pleated linen, brocaded ribbon. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Ogden Goelet, Peter Goelet, and Madison Clews in memory of Mrs. Henry Clews, 1961 (2009.300.1289)  © 2004–2011 the Brooklyn Museum Paul Poiret's early designs were revolutionary because the upright, columnar silhouette differed markedly from the... [Lire la suite]
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