Fancy Gray-Blue diamond and coloured diamond tie pin, early 20th century, owned by Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria (1861-1948). Estimate 500,000 USD - 700,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's..

GENEVA.- This November, Sotheby’s will present A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948), one of the most important collections of royal and noble jewels from the courts of central Europe ever to come to auction. ‘A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria (1861-1948)’ continues the story of the highly successful single owner sale ‘Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection’, held at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Geneva on 6 and 7 November 2023.

With 114 lots, spanning nearly a century in the history of the illustrious family of Tsar Ferdinand of Saxe-Cobourg-Gotha, this collection is a magnificent testimony to Tsar Ferdinand’s exquisite taste, nurtured by his mother, Princess Clementine of Orleans, daughter of the last French King Louis Philippe 1er – herself an avid jewellery collector.

Along with pieces owned by Tsar Ferdinand and heirlooms from his mother, this exceptional and unique collection features jewellery passed down through the generations from key members of the Tsar’s immediate lineage as well as pieces made for his children – especially his daughters Princesses Eudoxia and Nadezha. This collection is a vivid example of the importance of high jewellery in the lives of the most prominent European royal houses across the 19th and early 20th centuries, both in every day and ceremonial dressing. Life at court was always the height of sophistication and where daily objects were elevated to an artform.

Ferdinand of Bulgaria.

This collection distinguishes itself by its sophistication and international nature, featuring pieces produced by several Austro-Hungarian jewellers as well the leading international jewellers of their time, such as Bapst, Eugène Fontenay, Froment Meurice and Castellani.

Many pieces in the collection feature a remarkable use of high-quality coloured diamonds and gemstones, which held a particular appeal for Tsar Ferdinand. Items from the Tsar’s personal collection within this sale gloriously elevate typically masculine and practical personal effects such as cufflinks, tie pins and cigarette cases into works of art. The most extraordinary example of this, is the sale’s top lot (estimate 500,000 USD – 700,000 USD) – a yellow gold tie pin with a fleur-de-lis motif set with a 2.08 carat pear-shaped Fancy Gray-Blue diamond and four coloured diamonds, including a 0.65 carat Fancy Pink diamond, a 0.52 Fancy Green diamond, a 0.47 carat Fancy Deep Brown-Orange diamond and a 0.13 carat Fancy Intense Green Yellow diamond.

Five Highlights

Fancy Gray-Blue diamond and coloured diamond tie pin, early 20th century, owned by Ferdinand I, Tsar of Bulgaria (1861-1948). Estimate 500,000 USD - 700,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Diamond bandeau, 1890s. Estimate 80,000 USD – 120,000 USD. Princess Nadejda of Württemberg (1899-1958) wore this diamond bandeau at her wedding to Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954). The bandeau was most likely created by the Viennese jeweler Rothe & Neffe for her mother Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899). Courtesy Sotheby's.

Diamond rivière necklace, late 19th century. Estimate 100,000 USD – 150,000 USD. Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985) inherited this necklace from her mother Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899). It is recorded that Princess Marie Louise's father Robert, Duke of Parma (1848-1907), gave her two rows of diamonds as a wedding gift in 1893. Likely, this rivière necklace corresponds to one of those rows of diamonds. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Ruby, sapphire and diamond bracelet, attributed to Bapst, circa 1880. Estimate 30,000 USD – 50,000 USD. From the Collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans (1817-1907). Case by Bapst, French crown jeweller. Courtesy Sotheby's

Gem set and diamond bracelet, Eugène Fontenay, circa 1870. Estimate 40,000 USD – 60,000 USD. Provenance from Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria (1870-1899), likely inherited from her mother Princess Maria Pia of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Parma (1849-1882). Owned by Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria (1898-1985). Courtesy Sotheby's.

In addition to the many items commissioned by the Tsar for himself, this sale is extraordinarily varied, encompassing tiaras, brooches, bracelets, cigarette cases, cufflinks and objects of vertu. They all reflect a period, within nearly one-hundred year evolution in tastes and jewellery designs created for Central Europe’s most influential ruling families, from the mid-19th century onwards.

Pair of opal and diamond brooches, attributed to Köchert, circa 1861 and later. Estimate 15,000 USD – 25,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Natural pearl and diamond brooch, circa 1865. Estimate 30,000 USD – 50,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Carrying an estimate of 1.2M USD - 1.8M USD, this outstanding single owner collection will be offered as part of the Royal and Noble Jewels Sale taking place on 13 November at the Mandarin Oriental, during Sotheby’s Luxury Sales in Geneva. Prior to the auction, the collection will be exhibited at Sotheby’s locations around the world, starting with New York from 9 to 10 October, followed by Singapore, Taipei, London and Dubai.

Sotheby’s has worked in collaboration with the Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH to bring this collection to auction. This is the company’s second collaboration with Sotheby’s after the success of Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection last November in Geneva which produced a white glove sale.

Andres White Correal, Sotheby’s Chairman Jewellery Europe and Middle East, Head of Noble Jewels said: “ ‘A Tsar’s Treasure: Ferdinand of Bulgaria’ is a unique continuation of ‘Vienna 1900: An Imperial and Royal Collection’, offering us a privileged glimpse into the Tsar’s refined lifestyle, comprising jewels and objects that were illustrative of his personal life. His collection is a confluence of the most prominent Central European Royal families’ passion for extraordinary objects. Here, excellence, taste and superlative craftsmanship are the common thread. It is an honour for Sotheby’s Royal and Noble Jewels to bring such bring such a rare collection to the market for the first time”.

Philipp Württemberg, from Philipp Württemberg Art Advisory GmbH added: “This collection of jewels has never left the family of tsar Ferdinand of Bulgaria. It is a very intimate ensemble. Some pieces belonged to tsar Ferdinand’s wife or mother, but many of others show his personal choice and taste, like the fabulous coloured diamond pin or the extraordinary collection of cufflinks.”