Fleur-de-Lys, Bourbon-Parma Tiara, Petochi, Rome, 1937, Diamonds, platinum. © The Al Thani Collection

This diamond and platinum tiara was made for the wedding of Princess Maria Francesca of Savoy, daughter of King Victor Emmanuel III of Italy, to Prince Louis of Bourbon-Parma in 1939. It was created by the Roman jewellery firm of Petochi. The Italian jeweller was extremely popular with European royal families in the late 19th and early 20th century. The tiara was a gift to Princess Maria Francesca from her parents and is formed of a series of shield-shaped scrolling elements and fleur-de-lys set with diamonds that had been supplied by the Italian royal family. The grand style and the fleur-de-lys motifs reference the illustrious royal lineage of Princess Maria Francesca and her husband.

The various elements of the tiara are detachable and can be removed from the mount to form nine individual elements that can be used as brooches. Adaptability was a facet of many of these beautiful headpieces. They were frequently designed so that they could be unmounted and worn as necklaces, brooches or smaller hair ornaments, or to allow for different stones to be added or swapped into the design.

The tiara is on view as part of the exhibition ‘Dynastic Jewels’, open until 6 April 2026 at The Al Thani Collection at the Hôtel de la Marine, Paris. From legendary gemstones and historic tiaras to spectacular brooches, diadems and necklaces, ‘Dynastic Jewels’ presents resplendent pieces intended to be worn in the opulent settings of Europe’s royal courts, where they could articulate the status, heritage and authority of their owners. It is the third in a trilogy of exhibitions held in collaboration with the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.