GENEVA.- Tonight in an electric atmosphere at Sotheby’s Geneva, outstanding pieces from the collection of international screen legend Gina Lollobrigida sold for a combined total of CHF 4,741,500 ($4,962,122) (est. CHF 1.8-3.1 million/ $1.9-3.2 million). An exceptional pair of natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings - said to have belonged to the historic collection of the House of Habsburg – which the actress wore on numerous landmark occasions in her career, sold for CHF 2,285,000 ($2,391,321) – an auction record for a pair of natural pearl ear pendants, beating the figure set by Elizabeth Taylor’s pearl earrings in 2011. Buyers from around the world also clamoured for seminal pieces from the 1950s and 1960s by Bulgari. Ms Lollobrigida’s collection was the centrepiece of an epic auction of Magnificent and Noble Jewels which saw nearly 650 lots selling for a combined total of CHF 74,751,375 ($78,229,556) (est. CHF 46,982,000- 69,900,500 / $49,168,072- 73,152,970). Tonight a 74.53 carat cushion shaped fancy yellow diamond formerly in the collection of the Persian Shah, Ahmed Shah Qajar also sold for CHF 2,853,000 ($2,985,750), establishing an auction record for a fancy yellow diamond and a record price per carat for a fancy yellow diamond ($40,061 per carat). 

Speaking after the sale, Gina Lollobrigida said: “Jewels are meant to give pleasure and for many years I had enormous pleasure wearing mine. Many people tried to persuade me to sell them, but for a very long time I was unwilling. What changed, was seeing a little girl called Sofia suffering from a disorder, which could only be helped by stem cell treatment – treatment which she is unable to receive in Italy. Selling my jewels to help raise awareness of stem cell therapy, which can cure so many illnesses, seems to me a wonderful use to which to put them. It is my hope that the Italian parliament will approve this ground-breaking treatment, so that children and adults in Italy should have free access to it without having to travel abroad at great expense. It now gives me great pleasure to see that these jewels will create a legacy which will live on after me and continue to do good.”  

David Bennett, Chairman of Sotheby’s Switzerland and Chairman of the Jewellery Department for Europe and the Middle East commented: “Every so often a very special jewel collection comes along which is so much more than the sum of its parts. Gina Lollobrigida’s magnificent jewels captured the public imagination around the world and the prices achieved this evening reflect not only the importance and rarity of those pieces, but also the aura of fascination which this legendary actress continues to exert. Sotheby’s was honoured to be entrusted with the sale and we are delighted that the results will contribute to the noble cause of stem cell research, reflecting Miss Lollobrigida’s great generosity of spirit and her humanitarian work.” 

Genève – Ce soir, dans une atmosphère électrique, les bijoux de la collection de la légende du cinéma, Gina Lollobrigida ont été adjugés chez Sotheby’s Genève pour un montant total de CHF 4.741.500 ($4.962.122) (est. CHF 1,8-3,1 millions/ $1,9-3,2 millions). Portée par l’actrice mythique à des moments clés de sa carrière, une paire de pendants d’oreilles en perles naturelles et diamants - ayant certainement appartenu à la Maison de Habsbourg - a conclu la vente en atteignant CHF 2.285.000 ($2.391.321), battant ainsi l’enchère record établie en 2011 par les pendants en perles naturelles d’Elizabeth Taylor*. Des collectionneurs du monde entier se sont également disputés quelques-unes des plus belles pièces de la collection de Gina Lollobrigida, créées par Bulgari dans les années 1950 et 1960. Cette collection concluaient une journée de vente marathon au cours de laquelle quelques 650 lots ont été dispersés pour un montant total de CHF 74.751.375 ($78.229.556) (est. CHF 48-72 millions/ $50-75 millions). Ce soir, un diamant jaune « fancy yellow » taille coussin de 74,53 carats ayant appartenu au Shah de Perse, Ahmad Shah Qajar a également été vendu pour CHF 2.853.000 ($2.985.750), une enchère et un prix par carat records pour un diamant jaune « fancy yellow » ($40.061 par carat).

Informée des résultats après la vente, Gina Lollobrigida a déclaré : « Les bijoux procurent un plaisir immense et, pendant plusieurs années, j’ai adoré porter les miens. On a souvent essayé de me convaincre de les vendre et j’ai toujours refusé jusqu’à ce que je découvre le cas de la petite Sofia, atteinte d’une maladie que seul un traitement par cellules souches peut soulager. Ce traitement n’est pas disponible en Italie alors qu’il pourrait soigner de nombreux malades. J’ai pensé que mieux faire connaitre les thérapies cellulaires était la meilleure manière de mettre mes bijoux au service d’une cause importante. J’espère que le parlement italien approuvera ce traitement innovant pour qu’il devienne accessible en Italie et que les enfants et adultes malades n’aient plus à aller à l’étranger pour se faire soigner. Je suis très heureuse que mes bijoux contribuent à une cause juste qui me survivra ».

Pour David Bennett, Président de Sotheby’s Suisse et du Département de Haute Joaillerie de la compagnie en Europe et au Moyen-Orient: « Certaines collections transcendent de loin la valeur des bijoux qui la composent. C’est certainement le cas des magnifiques bijoux de la collection de Gina Lollobrigida qui ont fasciné le monde entier. Les résultats atteints ce soir reflètent non seulement l’importance et la rareté de ces joyaux; ils soulignent également l’aura et la fascination que cette actrice légendaire continue d’exercer. Ce fut un honneur pour Sotheby’s de conduire cette vente et nous sommes ravis que les résultats réalisés ce soir contribuent à une si noble cause qui souligne la grandeur d’âme de cette immense star et son engagement humanitaire ».

Jewels from the Collection of Gina Lollobrigida. Bijoux de la Collection de Gina Lollobrigida

Testament to the allure of one of the greatest stars of 20th century cinema, outstanding jewels from the collection of Gina Lollobrigida excited interest from around the world. On Friday night, the star caused a sensation when she visited the opening of the exhibition of her collection at Sotheby’s Geneva. 

The highlight of the collection – the record-breaking pair of natural pearl and diamond pendant earrings are exceptional for their colour and size, each drop-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 15.6 x 12.1 x 24.9mm and 15.9 x 13.8 x 23.3mm. Estimated at CHF 565,000-940,000 ($600,000-1,000,000), these pearls were worn by Miss Lollobrigida on numerous public occasions, including to meet Princess Margaret at The Taming of the Shrew premiere in London in 1967. Tonight they were pursued by no less than eight bidders before selling to a buyer in the room. 

Témoins de l’aura de l’une des plus grandes stars du XXème siècle, les bijoux de Gina Lollobrigida ont suscité l’intérêt du monde entier depuis l’annonce de leur vente en mars. Vendredi soir, l’actrice de légende a fait sensation chez Sotheby’s Genève en visitant l’exposition dédiée à ses bijoux.

Les paire de pendants en perles naturelles vendus pour un prix record étaient exceptionnelles, tant du point de vue de leur couleur que de leur taille (ces deux perles pesant respectivement 15,6 x 12,1 x 24,9 mm et 15,9 x 13,8 x 23,3 mm. Lors de l’achat de ces pendants, Gina Lollobrigida avait été informée du fait que ces perles avaient certainement appartenu autrefois à la Maison de Habsbourg. Estimés à CHF 565.000-940.000 ($600.000-1.000.000), ces pendants furent portés par l’actrice lors de nombreuses apparitions publiques et, notamment, lors de la première de La Mégère apprivoisée, en présence de la Princesse Margaret à Londres en 1967.

Lot 664. Pair of magnificent natural pearl and diamond pendants. Estimate 565,000 — 940,000 CHF. Lot sold 2,285,000 CHF. Photo Sothebys 2013.

Each drop-shaped natural pearl measuring approximately 15.6 x 12.1 x 24.9mm and 15.9 x 13.8 x 23.3mm, to a surmount set with brilliant- and single-cut diamonds. 

Provenance: According to Miss Lollobrigida, she was informed when she purchased these exceptional pearls that they were formerly in the collections of the House of Habsburg.

Bibliography: Cf: Amanda Triossi, Bulgari: 125 Years of Italian Magnificence, Grand Palais, page 326 for an illustration of this jewel.

Note: Cf: Amanda Triossi, Bulgari: 125 Years of Italian Magnificence, Grand Palais, page 326 for an illustration of this jewel.

The other star lot of the collection was a diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954 which realised CHF 749,000 ($783,851) (lot 663, est. CHF 285,000-470,000/ $300,000-500,000). The necklace was identified by Daniela Mascetti as one of Bulgari’s most important creations in her book Bulgari. Gina Lollobrigida was seen wearing this jewel on key moments in her professional and personal life, including when she received her 1961 Golden Globe for World Film Favourite – Female. 

L’autre star de la collection - deux bracelets en diamants pouvant être combinés en collier, Bulgari, 1954 (souvent portés par Gina Lollobrigida comme une tiare) a atteint CHF 749.000 ($783.851) (lot 663, est. CHF 285.000-470.000/ $300.000-500.000). De nombreuses photos et images d’archives montrent l’actrice portant ce collier, notamment lors de la cérémonie des Golden Globes en 1961 au cours de laquelle elle reçut le prix de la meilleure actrice.

Lot 663. Magnificent diamond necklace/bracelet combination, Bulgari, 1954. Estimate 285,000 — 470,000 CHF. Lot sold 749,000 CHF. Photo Sothebys 2013.

Of articulated and floral design featuring circular-cut and tapered baguette diamonds, some links pavé-set, signed Bulgari, necklace measuring approximately 430mm, may be seperated into four elements, two may be worn as bracelets or a diadem, bracelets each measuring approximately 190mm.

Bibliography: Cf: Amanda Triossi, Bulgari: 125 Years of Italian Magnificence, Grand Palais, pages 90-91, and 323 for illustrations of this jewel.

 Miss Lollobrigida receiving one of her many awards, wearing the necklace/bracelet combination as a diadem, along with the emerald and diamond ear clips, lot 659. 

 Miss Lollobrigida and Richard Burton at the Taming of the Shrew film premiere, 27 February 1967. Miss Lollobrigida is seen here wearing the Bulgari necklace/bracelet combination as two bracelets, along with the natural pearl and diamond pendants, lot 664.

Other highlights in the collection included:

A diamond ring set with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, Bulgari, 1962 which brought CHF 749,000 ($783,851) (lot 662, est. CHF 375,000-750,000/ $400,000-800,000). 

Autres lots phares de la collection adjugées ce soir: 

Une bague ornée d’un diamant taille coussin de 19,03 carats, Bulgari, 1962, vendue CHF 749.000 ($783.851) (lot 662, est. CHF 375.000-750.000/ $400.000-800.000).

Lot 662. Important 19.03 carats diamond ring, Bulgari, 1962. Estimate 375,000 — 750,000 CHF. Lot sold 749,000 CHF. Photo Sothebys 2013.

The cushion-shaped diamond weighing 19.03 carats, set between tapered baguette diamond shoulders, size 55, signed Bulgari, pouch.

Bibliography: Cf: Amanda Triossi, Bulgari: 125 Years of Italian Magnificence, Grand Palais, pages 101 and 323 for illustrations of this ring.

Miss Lollobrigida wearing the diamond ring, lot 662.

A pair of emerald and diamond earclips, Bulgari, 1964 which sold for CHF 293,000 ($306,633) (lot 659, est. CHF 145,000-240,000/ $150,000-250,000). 

Une paire de boucles d’oreilles en émeraudes et diamants, Bulgari, 1964, adjugée CHF 293.000 ($306.633) (lot 659, est. CHF 145.000-240.000/ $150.000-250.000). Chaque boucle est composée d’un clip en diamants et d’un pendant détachable, serti au centre d’une émeraude taille poire.

Lot 659. Attractive pair of emerald and diamond pendent ear clips, Bulgari, 1964. Estimate 145,000 — 240,000 CHF. Lot sold 293,000 CHF. Photo Sothebys 2013.

Bibliography: Cf: Amanda Triossi, Bulgari: 125 Years of Italian Magnificence, Grand Palais, pages 100-101, and 326 for illustrations of this jewel.

Note: Diamond surmounts may also be worn with the natural pearl and diamond drops, sold as lot 664.

1960s, Miss Lollobrigida sharing dinner and a drink with Salvador Dali; she is wearing the emerald and diamond ear clips and an emerald and diamond ring, lot 660.

An emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964, set with a step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats which was bought for realised CHF 173,000 ($181,050) (lot 660, est. CHF 115,000-170,000/ $120,000-180,000). 

Une bague en émeraude et diamants, Bulgari, 1964, sertie d’une émeraude taille rectangulaire à pans coupés pesant 16,62 carats qui a réalisé une enchère de CHF 173.000 ($181.050) (lot 660, est. CHF 115.000-170.000/ $120.000-180.000).

Lot 660. Emerald and diamond ring, Bulgari, 1964. Estimate 115,000 — 170,000 CHF. Lot sold 173,000 CHF. Photo Sothebys 2013.

The step-cut emerald weighing 16.62 carats, framed by two rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, size 551/2, signed Bulgari.

Bibliography: Cf: Amanda Triossi, Bulgari: 125 Years of Italian Magnificence, Grand Palais, pages 100-101, and 325 for illustrations of this ring.

Miss Lollobrigida wearing the emerald and diamond ring, along with the emerald and diamond ear clips, lot 659.

Historical & Noble Jewels - Bijoux historiques et de provenance aristocratique

Today’s auction confirmed the extraordinary appeal of jewels of noble provenance and great historical importance among international collectors. Having featured in the private collection of his Late Imperial Majesty Sultan Ahmed Shah Qajar, the seventh and last ruler of the Qajar dynasty of Persia (r. 1909-1925), a fancy yellow diamond and diamond jewel from the late 19th century, set with a 74.53 carat cushion shaped fancy yellow diamond sold for CHF 2,853,000 ($2,985,750), establishing an auction record for a fancy yellow diamond and a record price per carat for a fancy yellow diamond ($40,061 per carat) and doubling the pre-sale expectations (lot 585, est. CHF 1,310,000-1,680,000/ $1,400,000-1,800,000).

La 7ème édition des ventes de bijoux de provenance aristocratique de Sotheby’s Genève a confirmé l’attrait des collectionneurs pour cette catégorie. Un an après la vente du légendaire Beau Sancy en 20121, cette section du catalogue était menée par un autre joyau d’importance historique. Provenant de la collection personnelle de Ahmad Shah Qajar, le dernier Shah de la dynastie Qajar qui régna sur la Perse de 1909 à 1925, un magnifique bijou de la fin du XIXème siècle orné d’un diamant jaune « fancy yellow » taille coussin de 74,53 carats a atteint CHF 2.853.000 ($2.985.750), une enchère record pour un diamant jaune « fancy yellow » et un prix par carat record pour un diamant jaune « fancy yellow » ($40.061 par carat) (lot 585, est. CHF 1.310.000-1.680.000/ $1.400.000-1.800.000).

Fancy yellow diamond and diamond jewel, late 19th century - Sothebys

From the collection of a Lady of title, an important light pink diamond and diamond necklace, suspending a detachable pendant set with two marquise diamonds, a brilliant-cut light pink diamond weighing 6.93 carats, two circularcut diamonds, one weighing 34.78 carats, and a briolette diamond weighing 11.38 carats sold for CHF 2,285,000 ($2,391,321) (lot 586, CHF 1,410,000-2,350,000/ $1,500,000-2,500,000). 

Au cœur de la section de bijoux de provenance aristocratique figurait également un collier en diamants, composé d’un pendentif détachable serti de deux diamants taille marquise, d’un diamant rose « light pink » taille brillant pesant 6,93 carats, de deux diamants circulaires (dont un pesant 34.78 carats) et d’une briolette de 11.38 carats. Estimée à CHF 1.410.000-2.350.000 ($1.500.000-2.500.000), cette rivière de diamants a été adjugée CHF 2.285.000 ($2.391.321) (lot 586).

Lot 586. Important 6.93 carat light pink diamond, 34.78 carats circular-cut diamond, 11.38 carats briolette diamond and diamond necklace. Estimate: 1,410,000 – 2,350,000 CHF. Lot sold 2,285,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013 

Magnificent Jewels - Diamants et pierres précieuses d’exception

The Magnificent Jewels section featured a rich offering of white diamonds, led by a cushion modified brilliant-cut diamond weighing 27.90 carats mounted as a ring which made CHF4,253,000 ($4,450,892). This D Colour, internally flawless gem has not only received the highest colour and clarity grade from the GIA for white diamonds, but has also been found to be part of the rare Type IIa subgroup. Stones in this group, which comprise less than 2% of all gem diamonds, are chemically the purest of all diamond crystals and often have extraordinary optical transparency (lot 636, CHF 3,760,000-5,640,000/ $4,000,000-6,000,000). 

La vente comprenait une riche sélection de diamants blancs, menée par un diamant taille brillant coussin pesant 27.90 carats et monté en bague qui a été vendu CHF 4.253.000 ($4.450.892). (lot 636, CHF 3.760.000-5.640.000/ $4.000.000-6.000.000). Cette pierre a non seulement été certifiée de couleur D et « internally flawless », les plus hauts degrés de couleur et de pureté pour un diamant blanc; il s’agit par ailleurs d’un diamant de Type IIa, une catégorie rare et extrêmement recherchée représentant moins de 2% des diamants répertoriés dans le monde. Les pierres appartenant à cette catégorie sont les plus purs chimiquement et possèdent souvent une extraordinaire transparence optique.

Lot 636. Magnificent and very important 27.90 carats D Colour, Internally Flawless, Type IIa diamond ring. Estimate 3,760,000 – 5,640,000 CHF. Lot sold 4,253,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013

Other white diamond jewels sold tonight included: a fine diamond necklace by Graff, suspending a 12.60 carat pearshaped diamond (certified D Colour, Internally Flawless) which achieved CHF 1,745,000 ($1,826,195) (lot 631, CHF 1,410,000-1,880,000/ $1,500,000-2,000,000) and an impressive ring, set with a cushion brilliant-cut diamond weighing 31.35 carats which realised CHF 1,745,000 ($1,826,195) (lot 614A, est. CHF 1,310,000-1,680,000/ $1,400,000-1,800,000). 

Parmi les autres bijoux en diamants blanc adjugés ce soir, notons un magnifique collier signé Graff avec un pendentif composé d’un diamant taille poire de 12,60 carats (également certifié de couleur D et « Internally Flawless »), vendu CHF 1.745.000 ($1.826.195) (lot 631, CHF 1.410.000-1.880.000/ $1.500.000-2.000.000) ainsi qu’une très belle bague sertie d’un diamant taille brillant coussin de 31,35 carats, adjugée CHF 1.745.000 ($1.826.195) (lot 614A, est. CHF 1.310.000-1.680.000/ $1.400.000-1.800.000).

Lot 631. Important and fine diamond necklace, Graff . Estimate: 1,410,000 — 1,880,000 CHF. Lot sold 1,745,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013 

Accompanied by GIA report no. 14823597, stating that the diamond weighing 12.60 carats is D Colour, Internally Flawless.

Additionally accompanied by twenty-six GIA reports stating that the diamonds weighing from 1.00 to 3.26 carats are D to G Colour, Internally Flawless to VS2 Clarity.

Lot 614A. Impressive 31.35 carats diamond ring. Estimate: 1,310,000 — 1,680,000 CHF. Lot sold 1,745,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013 

Set with a cushion brilliant-cut diamond weighing 31.35 carats, size 51.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2155345047, stating that the diamond is H Colour, VS2 Clarity, excellent polish, excellent symmetry.

The selection of coloured diamonds comprised a cut-cornered rectangular mixed cut fancy light purplish pink diamond weighing 12.85 carats and mounted as a ring which sold for CHF 1,445,000 ($1,512,236) (lot 630, est. CHF 1,125,000-1,695,000/ $1,200,000-1,800,000). 

Au sein de la sélection de diamants de couleur, un diamant rose « fancy light purplish pink » rectangulaire à pans coupés de 12,85 carats monté en bague a réalisé CHF 1.445.000 ($1.512.236) (lot 630, est. CHF 1.125.000-1.695.000/ $1.200.000-1.800.000).

Lot 630. 12.85 carats Fancy light purplish pink diamond ring. Estimate: 1,125,000 — 1,695,000 CHF. Lot sold 1,445,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013

The cut-cornered rectangular mixed cut fancy light purplish pink diamond weighing 12.85 carats, the front of the mounting pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 49.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 5151031187, stating that the diamond is Fancy Light Purplish Pink, Natural Colour, VVS1 Clarity.

The sale also included a rich assortment of exceptional gemstones. Among the Kashmir sapphires was an important cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 11.71 carats, mounted as a ring which made CHF 1,061,000 ($1,110,368) (lot 629, est. CHF 940,000-1,500,000/ $1,000,000-1,600,000). The velvety blue of this stone has been described by the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF as “typical and characteristic of the finest sapphires of Kashmir”. 

La vente présentait également un ensemble de pierres précieuses exceptionnelles, mené par un très beau saphir du Cachemire taille coussin, pesant 11,71 carats et monté en bague qui a atteint CHF 1.061.000 ($1.110.368) (lot 629, est. CHF 940.000-1.500.000/ $1.000.000-1.600.000). L’Institut suisse de Gemmologie SSEF avait décrit le bleu velouté de cette pierre comme « typique et caractéristique des plus beaux saphirs du Cachemire ».

Lot 629. Important 11.71 carats Kashmir sapphire ring. Estimate: 940,000 — 1,500,000 CHF. Lot sold 1,061,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013

The cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 11.71 carats, size 58. 

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 66372 and Gübelin report no. 12100117, each stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. 

'The natural sapphire described in the Gemstone report 66372 from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF possesses extraordinary characteristics and merits special mention and appreciation. The described gemstone of 11.710 carats exhibits an outstanding purity, combined with a velvety blue colour and an attractive cutting style... The velvety blue of this sapphire is due to very fine and subtle inclusions and a combination of well-balanced trace elements in the gemstone, typical and characteristic of the finest sapphires of Kashmir.' Excerpts from the SSEF appendix letter.

Burmese sapphires were represented by a magnificent sapphire and diamond pendant/brooch from the 19th century, set with a pear-shaped sapphire weighing 43.27 carats. This stone was sold for CHF 521,000 ($545,242) (lot 624, est. CHF 190,000-285,000/ $200,000-300,000). By family tradition, the sapphire once belonged to Joséphine de Beauharnais (b. 1763-1814), first wife of Napoléon Bonaparte. 

Les saphirs birmans étaient représentés par une magnifique broche en saphir et diamants du XIXème siècle, sertie d’un saphir taille poire de 43,27 carats qui a trouvé preneur pour CHF 521.000 ($545.242) (lot 624, est. CHF 190.000-285.000/ $200.000-300.000). Dans la tradition de la famille de son actuel propriétaire, cette pierre a appartenu à Joséphine de Beauharnais (1763-1814), première épouse de Napoléon Bonaparte.

Lot 624. Impressive 43.27 carats Burmese sapphire and diamond pendant-brooch, 19th century composite. Estimate 190,000 – 285,000 CHF. Lot sold 521,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013

The finest emeralds in the world are generally acknowledged to be found in Columbia and fine examples exhibit the most vivid green, as exemplified in a fine emerald and diamond ring, claw-set with a cushion-shaped emerald weighing 25 carats which achieved CHF 1,025,000 ($1,072,693) (lot 626, CHF 940,000-1,400,000/ $1,000,000-1,500,000). 

Les émeraudes de Colombie sont considérées comme les plus belles émeraudes au monde et se distinguent souvent par l’intensité de leur vert. La vente en comprenait un très bel exemple: une émeraude taille coussin de 25 carats, montée en bague, adjugée CHF 1.025.000 ($1.072.693) (lot 626, CHF 940.000-1.400.000/ $1.000.000-1.500.000).

Lot 626. Fine 25.00 carats Colombian emerald and diamond ring. Estimate 940,000 — 1,400,000 CHF. Lot sold 1,025,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013

Claw-set with a cushion-shaped emerald weighing 25.00 carats between trapeze-shaped diamond shoulders, size 501/2. 

Jewels designed by Suzanne Belperron for Cécyle Simon - Bijoux créés par Suzanne Belperron pour son amie Cécyle Simon

Following Sotheby’s Geneva “white glove” sale of 60 Jewels from the personal collection of Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983) in May 2012 1, this spring’s sale confirmed the appeal of creations by the most talented and influential female jeweller of the 20th century. Jewels designed for her long-standing friend Cécyle Simon realised a combined total of CHF 1,215,250 ($1,271,796) which almost doubled the low estimate (est. CHF 550,000-771,500/ $575,592-807,398). 

Un an après le succès de la vente de bijoux de la collection personnelle de Suzanne Belperron (1900-1983)2, la vente d’aujourd’hui a confirmé le succès des créations de cette pionnière de la joaillerie moderne, aujourd’hui considérée comme l’un des plus grands joailliers du XXème siècle. La collection de bijoux créés par Suzanne Belperron pour son amie Cécyle Simon a presque doublé les estimations, atteignant CHF 1.215.250 ($1.271.796) (est. CHF 550.000-771.500/ $575.592-807.398).

Leading this collection was a diamond ring, set with a 9.10 carat circular-cut diamond, 1970-1974, which achieved CHF 269,000 ($281,517) (lot 33, est. CHF 150,000-185,000/ $159,000-195,000). 

Le prix le plus haut a été obtenu par une bague ornée d’un diamant circulaire de 9,10 carats, adjugée CHF 269.000 ($281.517) (lot 33, est. CHF 150.000-185.000/ $159.000-195.000).

Lot 33. 9.10 carats Diamond ring, Suzanne Belperron, 1970-1974. Estimate 150,000 — 185,000 CHF. Lot sold 269,000 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013

Set to the centre with a circular-cut diamond weighing 9.10 carats, size 54, French assay and maker's mark for Darde & Cie. 

Accompanied by GIA report no. 1152341811, stating that the diamond is H Colour, VS2 Clarity and a certificate from Olivier Baroin.

Suzanne Belperron’s daring creations often combine diamonds and hardstones. In circa 1955, she created a chalcedony and diamond dress clip, in the form of a bunch of grapes (“grappe de raisin”) which nearly tripled the high estimate to realise CHF 93,750 ($98,112) (lot 34, est. CHF 23,000-33,000/ $24,300-34,800). 

Les créations de Suzanne Belperron marient souvent diamants et pierres dures, à l’instar d’un clip en diamants et calcédoines reproduisant le motif d’une grappe de raisin qui a presque triplé l’estimation haute et réalisé CHF 93.750 ($98.112) (lot 34, est. CHF 23.000-33.000/ $24.300-34.800).

Lot 34. Chalcedony and diamond dress clip, Suzanne Belperron, circa 1955. Estimate 23,000 — 33,000 CHF. Lot sold 93,750 CHF. Photo Sotheby's 2013

In the form of a grappe de raisin, composed of white chalcedony accented with circular-cut diamonds, the stem pavé-set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, French assay and maker's marks for Droëné & Darde. 

Accompanied by a certificate from Olivier Baroin.

Bibliography: Cf: Sylvie Raulet and Olivier Baroin, Suzanne Belperron, 2011, page 122 for an illustration of a similar brooch.