An exceptional Art Nouveau necklace with thistles, by René Lalique, Paris, c. 1905. © Epoque Fine Jewels at BRAFA 2026, stand 77.

Crafted in gold, diamonds, enamel and moulded amber-coloured glass, the necklace is composed of six pentagonal plaques, each adorned with outward-facing thistles. Slender rods of yellow enamel rise above, while curved gold thorns - set with diamonds and warm-toned enamel - introduce a subtle tension between delicacy and strength. Smaller thistle motifs in orange glass create a rhythmic play of texture and light.

The thistle, emblem of Lorraine, carries meanings of courage and protection, suggesting a thoughtful dialogue between symbolism and ornament. Created shortly after Lalique established his celebrated workshop at Place Vendôme, the jewel captures a pivotal moment: the natural lyricism of Art Nouveau meeting the clarity and forward-looking spirit that would soon lead to Art Deco.

Long preserved in a French private collection and once known primarily through Lalique’s drawings, this necklace stands as a rare testament to his pioneering use of glass in high jewellery - poetic, technically daring, and resolutely modern.