MINIMALISM REDUX Cool and sharp yet warm and fuzzy, Raf Simons’s clothes for Jil Sander rethink simple with a tactile mix of textures. Ribbed cardigan, $970, and shirt, $235, at Jil Sander; navy trousers, $650, at Saks Fifth Avenue

SOLDIER OF FASHION Junya Watanabe’s funny yet thoughtful take on Army surplus is surprisingly functional. Cotton moleskin blazer, $1,190 at Bloomingdale’s SoHo; shirt with slanted zip pockets, $420, and cotton moleskin patchwork pants, $1,050, at Comme des Garçons

PREP CAT Michael Bastian reinvents upper-crust classic with just enough personality to show you have one. Cashmere vest, $835, and shirt, $360, at Bergdorf Goodman Men. Right, double-faced cotton suit, $2,148 to order at Bergdorf; spread-collar shirt, $340, and tie, $148, at Holt Renfrew.

NEW WAVE REVIVALISM Cloak interprets understated indie-rock ’tude in suave threads. Nary a T-shirt in sight. Cotton-flannel work shirt with zip pockets, $390, and batiste shirt, $340. Center, cotton-flannel jacket with shearling hood, $1,340, shirt, $340, sherpa-lined vest, $740, and herringbone cigarette pants, $390. Right, oxford cotton shirt, $340, wool vest, $365, tweed tuxedo pants, $440, and striped houndstooth scarf, $315. All at Cloak and Barneys.

ONE FROM EACH COLUMN The many moods (and archetypes, labels and prices) of Ralph Lauren spring into new (and useful) life mixed together. Purple Label by Ralph Lauren peaklapel jacket and vest (part of a suit), $3,695; Polo by Ralph Lauren oxford cloth shirt, $75, black denim jeans, $145, and wool club tie, $75.

photos : Mark Veltman for The New York Times