Christie's Geneva: Impressive Private Collections & Royal and Aristocratic Jewels

4 novembre 2008

Christie's Geneva: Impressive Private Collections & Royal and Aristocratic Jewels

Geneva – Christie’s 20 November Jewels: The Geneva Sale will dazzle and delight with an array of diamonds, coloured diamonds, with important gemstones such as the 42 carat Kashmir sapphire and will present several private collection as well as a dedicated section of royal and aristocratic jewels.

IMPRESSIVE PRIVATE COLLECTIONS

AN EXQUISITE ART DECO SAPPHIRE, EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, BY CARTIER
Suspending a briolette sapphire drop, from a neckchain set with a series of carved barrel-shaped emerald beads, alternating with sapphire beads and baguette-cut diamond rondelles, supporting a fringe of triangular-shaped sapphire briolettes, mounted in platinum, made in 1930, 61.0 cm inner length. Signed Cartier, no. 850. Accompanied by a Cartier certificate of authenticity stating that the necklace is a genuine Cartier item - Estimate 180,000 - 240,000 Swiss francs

Two extraordinary single owner collections presented in their own catalogues will be part of the Geneva jewels sale and showcase the most iconic styles of the 20th century while running the gamut of coloured gemstones and important diamonds. It is Art Deco period that stands out stylistically in the Fine Jewels and Gemstones from a Private Collector. The highlight is a superb carved emerald and sapphire bead necklace in the Indian style by Cartier, which bears a strong resemblance to a prototype jewel originally designed by the jeweller for the legendary Daisy Fellowes, heiress to the Singer sewing machine fortune. Suspending thirteen elliptical faceted sapphires from an emerald and sapphire bead neck chain (estimate: SFr. 180,000 to 240,000).

There is a continuation of colour within the collection of gemstones: green emeralds from Columbia; rich rubies from both Burma and Thailand; and the undoubted highlight of the coloured gems, three fabulous, vivid, velvety blue sapphires, weighing 10.40, 7.57 and 7.37 carats, and all from Kashmir (estimate: SFr. 1.4 to 1.8 million).

A SUPERB RUBY AND DIAMOND NECKLACE
Of cascade design, the front set with a baguette-cut diamond tassel with oval-shaped ruby terminals together with a marquise-cut diamond asymmetric double foliate motif, to the twin oval-shaped ruby and baguette-cut diamond neckchain, 1950s, 39.0 inner circumference, with French assay mark for platinum and gold. Accompanied by report no. 51790 dated 15 July 2008 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that all rubies are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating - Estimate 250,000 - 350,000 Swiss francs

In addition to the well-trained eye behind another cache of fine coloured gems within The Property of a Distinguished European Collector, the glamour years of the mid-20th century are paramount. One particular jewel, designed as an asymmetric intertwined cascade of rubies and diamonds, evokes the image of the Duchess of Windsor in Van Cleef & Arpels: the embodiment of self-styled chic (estimate: SFr. 250,000 to 350,000/$210,000 to 290,000).

Underpinning the quality of both collections is a number of important single diamonds. From the first are two impressive rectangular-cut diamonds, both over 20 carats, the largest weighing 28.82 carats (estimate: SFr. 1.4 to 2.2 million/$ 1.2 to 1.8 million). From The Distinguished European Collector, two D colour, otentially Flawless gems steal the show: one a 10.25 carat marquise-shape (estimate: SFr. 800,000 to 1,200,000 million / $ 680,000 to 1,000,000 million) and the other an outstanding 22.90 carat rectangular-cut (estimate: SFr. 2.5 to 3.5 million/$2.1 to 2.9 million).

Many other fine private jewellery collections will be offered in the main sale.

ROYAL & ARISTOCRATIC JEWELS

Following the long standing tradition of offering historic and aristocratic jewels the Geneva sale will resent a fine selection of jewels with royal and aristocratic provenance this November. As a singular grouping of such jewels rarely seen on the market today, they are an insight into the height of the traditional jeweller’s art.

THE LOTHIAN EMERALDS

A MAGNIFICENT SUITE OF ANTIQUE EMERALD AND DIAMOND JEWELLERY
Comprising a necklace designed as a graduated line of rectangular-cut emeralds alternating with old-cut diamonds, each set in raised collets, suspending a pear-shaped emerald fringe, to the detachable centre set with an octagonal-shaped domed cabochon emerald with an old-cut diamond surround and emerald drop, and a pair of ear pendants en suite set with a briolette emerald within a diamond border, mounted in silver and gold, circa 1830, 33.0 cm long, ear pendants 3.5 cm long. Accompanied by reports no. 49181 and 49181 dated 14 November 2000 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that all emeralds are of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity modification (2) - Estimate 1,800,000 - 3,000,000 Swiss francs

Set in an elegant fringe necklace in the grand Napoleonic style of the First Empire, the majority of the 100 carats of Colombian emeralds were most probably a gift to the 2nd Earl of Buckinghamshire, during his embassy to the court of St Petersburg between 1762 and 1765 from the Empress, Catherine the Great. By descendence the gems came into the possession of The Marquess of Lothian, who had them mounted in the present necklace at about the time of the coronation of William IV in 1831, possibly by the court jewellers, Rundell, Bridge and Rundell (estimate: SFr. 1,800,000-2,500,000).

Unequivocally royal items will also be offered in the auction: jewels belonging to two European princesses. The antique diamond and gem-set jewels have also remained in their respective royal families for over a hundred years and represent jewellery made in the finest historic tradition for the most important European families. One jewel from each princess stands out in particular.

The first, an exquisite antique diamond choker, designed as a wide openwork band of intertwining diamond flower heads and leaves, is the epitome of royal elegance.

AN EXQUISITE ANTIQUE DIAMOND CHOKER, BY A.E. KÖCHERT
Of openwork floral motif, designed as a series of collet-set diamond flowerheads and old-cut diamond leaves, the centre accented by interlocking diamond links, to the slightly scalloped diamond border with diamond collet detail, circa 1890, 34.0 cm long, in a fitted Köchert brown leather case. By A.E. Köchert - Estimate 130,000 - 190,000 Swiss francs

Created by Köchert, the Austrian crown jeweller founded in 1814 and famed for their sumptuous commissions not just for the Imperial House of Austria but for many other important royal and noble families throughout Europe, this delicate collier is as wearable today as it was at the end of the 19th century (estimate: SFr. 130,000-190,000/$110,000-160,000).

Equally, an antique sapphire and diamond suite of tiara, brooch and necklace is another royal princess’ unquestioned highlight. While the tiara and brooch display the naturalistic floral tendencies of the first half of the 19th century, the classic sapphire and diamond cluster fringe necklace, like the Lothian Emeralds, exhibits the finest workmanship of the 1830s (estimate: SFr. 500,000-700,000/$420,000-580,000)

THE BIG BLUE - ONE OF THE LARGEST AND MOST VALUABLE SAPPHIRES EVER TO BE OFFERED AT AUCTION

A SET OF THREE MAGNIFICENT UNMOUNTED SAPPHIRES
The three cushion-shaped sapphires each weighing 10.40, 7.57 and 7.37 carats, in a fitted blue leather case
Accompanied by report no. 51795 dated 14 July 2008 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the three sapphires are of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating
Accompanied by report no. 0809021 /1 and 2 dated 09 September 2008 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that the 7.37 and 7.58 carats sapphires are both of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating
Accompanied by report no. 0809059 dated 09 September 2008 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that the 10.40 carat sapphire has no indications of heating (3)
Estimate 1,440,000 - 1,800,000 Swiss francs

This incredible sapphire gem, weighing 42.28 carats originated from the legendary mines of Kashmir. A locality whose main production spanned the few decades between the 1880s and the 1920s, and whose name stands for the finest sapphires of the world.

The exceptional quality that differentiates a sapphire from Kashmir is the unique combination of a bright, royal, and in daylight almost electric, blue colour together with a soft, velvety texture caused by a unique scattering of the light within the stone from tiny acicular particles. According to the Swiss Gemmological Institute: ‘Natural sapphires from Kashmir of this size, colour and clarity represent a great rarity and the described gemstone with its combination of outstanding characteristics is a very exceptional treasure’ (estimate: SFr.3.1-4.2 million/$2.8-3.8 million).

Leading a cache of many impressive top white diamonds, including the two ‘D’ colour pear-shapes weighing 12.95 (estimate: SFr.1.2-1.4 million/$1.0-1.2 million) and 16.38 carats (estimate: SFr.1.98-2.4million /$1.65-2.0 million), is a highly important 30.15 carat gem (estimate: SFr. 2.9-3.4 million/$2.4-2.8 million). Pear-shaped and ‘D’ colour – qualities in high demand and currently in scarce supply – a gem of this size is a desirable treasure among the glittering trove of the Geneva Sale. Another spectacular diamond ring stands out not only by its amount of carats, 37.08 but by its Excellent cut grade, Excellent polish and Excellent symmetry (estimate: SFr. 1.8-2.4 million). The finish or surface of diamonds is divided into three categories: polish, symmetry and facet survey and it is a rare combination in such a large diamond to find excellent polish, excellent symmetry and excellent cut.

An entire section will be devoted to the art of Cartier, arguably the most consistently innovative and respected jeweller of the past 100 years. Examples of the firm’s craftsmanship will be showcased in the form of the distinctive Art Deco ‘tutti frutti’ design with which the firm has become almost exclusively associated, whimsical retro brooch/clips and dazzling diamond bracelets, all in the Cartier signature style. One of the particular highlight of this section is the Tutti Frutti bracelet dated 1933 (estimate: SFr. 180,000-240,000/$150,000-200,000).

A SUPERB ART DECO SAPPHIRE, EMERALD, RUBY, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, BY CARTIER
The flexible foliate band, designed as a pavé-set diamond meandering vine with black enamel rondelle details, set with carved emerald and ruby leaves and diamond inlaid sapphire and ruby buds, to the circular and baguette-cut diamond buckle-shaped clasp, mounted in platinum, made in 1933, 17.3 cm long. Signed Cartier. Accompanied by a Cartier certificate of authenticity no. GE2008-148 dated 21 August 2008 stating that the bracelet is a genuine Cartier item - Estimate 180,000 - 240,000 Swiss francs

Auction: 20 November 2008 at The Hotel des Bergues Geneva. Visit Christie’s at www.christies.com. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd. 2008