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23 novembre 2008

Le retour de Romeo Gigli

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A design from Romeo Gigli's new fashion line io ipse idem. photo Micky Modo

Romeo Gigli qui était l'un de mes créateurs préférés des années 80/90 fait son grand retour sur la scène et je suis d'ores et déjà enchanté. Suzy Menkès, la grande prêtresse lui consacre un article "Romeo Gigli launches a new line" http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/11/20/style/fromeo.php et fait un retour sur sa carrière.

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Born in Castelbolognese in 1951 to antique-book dealers, Gigli is one of the most iconic designers of Italian fashion in the 1980's and 1990's. Originally the protégé of the designer Dimitri in New York, he showed his breakthrough collection in Milan in 1983. photo catwalking.com

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Gigli studied architecture in Italy before traveling to Asia and collecting the continents' art and design. A Romantic designer, he drew inspiration from his travels in the far east and studies of history as well as designers like Poiret. In this design from his Spring 1990 collection, Gigli's almost ethnic embellishment and penchant for historic form is evident. photo catwalking.com

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Gigli's gentle silhouette was famous for its rounded shoulder, which went against the trend for thick shoulder padding popular on 1980's Italian runways. The designer's soft touch can be seen in the suit to the left, from his Spring 1993 collection. photo catwalking.com

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Gigli was also renown for his take on the cocoon silhouette, as seen in this coat design from his Fall 1990 collection. photo catwalking.com

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Gigli's use of lacy and knit fabrics gave the appearance of lightness to coats and cloaks. In this design for his Fall 1992 collection, Gigli's architectural training are on show in the dress's daring form. photo catwalking.com

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Romeo Gigli hated the 'total look,' and the uniformity of fashion and preferred layering and mixing styles. Plays on the neckline were always a focus of his designs, which he often draped directly onto the mannequin, giving his clothes a hint of spontaneity. Here, a design from his Fall 1987 show begins to explain the relaxed but Romantic modernity Gigli was famous for. photo catwalking.com

Et voici quelques vidéos d'époque:

sfilata romeo gigli
Romeo Gigli - fall winter 1993 - report - part 1

Romeo Gigli - fall winter 1993 - report - part 2

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