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19 juillet 2012

Robe. China, 1900-1930. Qing dynasty-Republic

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Robe. China, 1900-1930. Qing dynasty-Republic. Cut silk velvet on a satin weave ground. Length: 145 cm including collar, Width: 204 cm across sleeves. Addis Bequest. Museum number: .FE.126-1983 Victoria & Albert Museum © V&A Images

Man's robe (changpao) in grey silk cut velvet with an all-over pattern of flower and bamboo sprays in cut pile against a satin weave ground. The stand-up collar was woven to shape and has a design of bats, swastikas, and a 'shou' character, also in cut velvet against a satin weave ground. Right side fastening with five black silk loop-and-knot buttons. The garment is full length with long and tight sleeves, a high straight collar (c.10cm), and high slits at sides. A pocket of velvet, matching the main garment body, is sewn onto the inner flap. The robe's lining is of a light blue plain weave silk and the garment is lightly wadded. The sleeve ends, collar, neck and side fastening flap are all edged with black satin piping. 

This man's robe is made from silk velvet. A short front-fastening jacket, Western-style trilby hat and trousers with turn-ups were frequently worn with this type before 1949. 

This man's grey robe has sprays of blossom and bamboo across it. The motifs appear dark against a paler ground because they are formed by the dense, cut pile of the velvet. It is fastened with fabric knot buttons which pass through loops. Inside the robe, at the top of the section hidden beneath the overlap, there is a patch pocket of matching velvet. This is a 20th-century feature, copied from Western tailoring.

Marks and inscriptions: Tianmen Branch of the Special Crafts Co. Item No. 3047. Shanzi=Robe. 46 Yuan

Bibliographic References: Wilson, Verity. "A Diplomat's Collection: The Chinese Textiles of Sir John Addis." Arts of Asia. 2003, vol. 33, no. 2. pp. 90-101; plate 23, page 99. 
Wilson, Verity. "Identifying Women's Things in the T. T. Tsui Gallery." Orientations. July, 1991, p. 36. 
Kerr, Rose, ed. T. T. Tsui Gallery of Chinese Art.. London: V&A Publications, 1991, p.133. ISBN 1851770178

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