A rare Imperial dark blue-ground formal 'dragon' robe, chaofu, Qianlong-Jiaqing period. Estimate US$ 80,000 - 120,000 (€71,000 - 110,000). Photo: Bonhams.

The dark blue silk couched on the chest, back and each shoulder with a five-clawed front-facing dragons each encircling a flaming pearl all amongst embroidered cloud scrolls and tasseled Buddhist Symbols, and above precious objects and knotted peonies issuing from foaming waves, the waist band with two confronted five-clawed dragons on the front and the back enclosed within a Y-patterned silk edging, the two pleated aprons each with six dragon roundels above two further pairs of confronted dragons above knotted peonies and foaming waves, the interior flap with an additional dragon reaching towards a flaming pearl and another dragon roundel, the sleeves of dark blue ribbed silk and the lining of pale blue silk damask woven with a floral motif. 58 1/2in (149cm) long

Notes: The Imperial robe of state, chaopao or chaofu, is the most formal of Qing court dress. It would have been worn only at the most important state functions, such as enthronements, Grand Audiences, Imperial weddings or birthdays, or seasonal events such as important ritual sacrifices or New Year celebrations. 

The design of the chaofu illustrates the importance placed during the Qing dynasty on marrying Chinese history and traditions with their own Manchu heritage: for example the yoke and band decoration originated in the Yuan and Ming dynasties, and the unusual construction of the robe is based on the three separate parts of a traditional riding costume, namely a coat with long sleeves and cuffs, a short-sleeved hip-length surcoat worn above, and two aprons overlapping at the sides to allow freedom of movement. The tapered sleeves and horseshoe cuffs are indicative of the Manchu nomadic style. With its bulk of heavy silk and gorgeous embroidery in a complex design, the appearance of the robe would exuded a powerful sense of formality, tradition and grandeur, reflecting the status of the wearer and the dynasty which he embodied. 

Several examples of these important robes can be found in museum collections, including one dated before 1901 in the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, number 1608-1901, and another in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, number 35.84.3, dated to the second half of the 19th century. A related chaofu dated to the mid-19th century is illustrated by R. D. Jacobsen, Imperial Silks: Ch'ing Dynasty Textiles in The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, Vol. I, Minneapolis, 2000, p. 58, no. 1. 

A rare example dated to the Kangxi period but without the dragon roundels on the skirt, is illustrated by M. Myers, Silks for Thrones and Altars, Blanchard, 2003, pp. 48-49, no. 16, where the author notes that the number of chaopao produced was small compared to other court robes and as a result the survival of Qing dynasty chaopao is rare. Compare also a similar robe dated to the Qianlong period from the collection of Jon Eric Riis, sold at Christie's Hong Kong, sale 3322, 28 May 2014, lot 3349.

BONHAMS. CHINESE PAINTINGS AND WORKS OF ART, 14 Sep 2015 10:00 EDT - NEW YORK