Lot 115. An emerald, diamond and gold bazuband, India, late 19th-early 20th century; 8 x 12 cm. Price realised GBP 18,900 (Estimate GBP 10,000 – GBP 15,000). © Christie's Images Ltd 2024

A large rectangular uncarved emerald set within an articulated setting of foil-backed diamonds and emeralds of foliate design, below a fringe of gem-set and seed pearl beads, metal-thread loop for fastening.

Provenance: Private Collection, Singapore, since 1950s.

Note: The bazuband (armband) represents an ancient style of jewellery that can be seen on Indian sculpture, as early as the Gandharan period in the third and fourth centuries. Whether worn individually or as part of a set, this type of bazuband, characterized by its three-panel design, emerged during the Mughal era. The Gentil Album, dated circa 1774, in the Victoria & Albert Museum illustrates various tripartite jewels which could be bazubands or sarpatti (part of turban ornaments) (inv. no. IS 1925-1980; S. Stronge, N. Smith and J.C. Harle, A Golden Treasury: Jewellery from the Indian Subcontinent, Ahmedabad, 1988, fig. 6, pp.28-29). The arrangement and design of the gemstones, as well as the absence of enamelling on the reverse, suggest western inspiration, yet the armband still maintains its traditional fastening method using an adjustable metal-thread cord.

Lot 116. An emerald and diamond-set  gold brooch, probably Europe for the Indian market, early 20th century; 10.8 x 7.5 cm. Price realised GBP 20,160 (Estimate GBP 8,000 – GBP 12,000). © Christie's Images Ltd 2024

A large cabochon green beryl in the centre surrounded by scalloped frames of diamonds and emeralds, three plumes above set with further emeralds and diamonds, five pear-shaped hanging emeralds, pin on the reverse.

Provenance: Janine Metz (nee Spaner), Westchester, New York, Social Secretary to Wallis the Duchess Windsor (1962-1972).

Note: The design of this brooch is reminiscent of Art Deco jewellery, and it was likely made in a European workshop for an Indian client. Its design resembles an example published Oppi Untracht, Traditional Jewelry of India, London, 1997, no.838, p.387. Untracht illustrates that example with a painting of the young Maharaja Dulip Singh of Lahore wearing a similar jewel on his turban.

Christie's. ART OF THE ISLAMIC AND INDIAN WORLDS INCLUDING RUGS AND CARPETS, London, 25 April 2024