Tiara, Cartier London, 1937. Aquamarine, diamonds and platinum. Cartier Collection. © Cartier

LONDON.- The V&A is staging the UK’s first major exhibition in almost 30 years dedicated to Cartier jewels and watches, exploring how the Maison became an unparalleled force in the jewellery and watch world.

Featuring more than 350 objects, the exhibition charts the evolution of the house’s legacy of art, design and craftsmanship since the turn of the 20th century. It was at that point that the three grandsons of founder Louis-François set out to create the first globally recognised jewellery house, establishing branches in Paris, London and New York. With an enviable client list of royalty and aristocracy, Cartier became known as ‘the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’ and later broadened its appeal thanks to the devotion of leading creatives from the worlds of cinema, music and fashion.

The exhibition includes precious jewels and showstopping objects, historic gemstones, iconic watches and clocks from the V&A and Cartier Collection, as well as previously unseen drawings from the V&A and Cartier archives, together with works lent by His Majesty The King from the Royal Collection, major UK and international museums, and private collections.

The exhibition design is led by British architect and artist Asif Khan MBE, continuing a tradition of landmark collaborations where artists have shaped Cartier’s scenography.

Highlights include the Williamson Diamond brooch commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 featuring the rare 23.6 carat pink Williamson diamond; the Scroll Tiara commissioned in 1902 and worn to the coronation of Elizabeth II, and by Rihanna on the cover of W magazine in 2016; a rose clip brooch (1938) worn by Princess Margaret at her sister’s coronation; Grace Kelly’s engagement ring (1956), from the Monaco Princely Palace Collection, that she wore in her final film High Society (1956); an amethyst and sapphire brooch made by Cartier London (c.1933) and worn by Jacques Cartier’s wife Nelly; Mexican film star María Félix’s exceptional snake necklace (1968); the majestic Manchester Tiara from the V&A collection, made in 1903 for the Dowager Duchess of Manchester; a collection of panther jewels, one of the House’s most enduring and instantly recognisable symbols, including a bracelet of pavé diamonds flecked with onyx (1978); and a selection of Cartier timepieces that embody its unique and pioneering approach to watchmaking, including the Crash wristwatch, designed by Cartier London (1967).

Scroll tiara, Cartier Paris, commissioned for the Countess of Essex in 1902. Diamonds, silver and gold, Collection Cartier. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection © Cartier

Rose clip brooch, Cartier London, special order, 1938. Owned by Princess Margaret. Diamonds and platinum. Cartier Collection. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Brooch, Cartier London, about 1933. Formerly in the collection of Jacques Cartier family. Amethyst, sapphires, diamonds and platinum. Cartier Collection. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Manchester tiara, Harnichard for Cartier Paris, 1903. Commission for Consuelo, Dowager Duchess of Manchester. Diamonds, gold and silver; the C-scroll at each end set with glass paste. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Panthère-Pattern Wristwatch, 1914. Onyx, diamonds, pink gold, platinum and black, moiré strap. Cartier Collection. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Panthère clip brooch, Cartier Paris, 1949. Sold to the Duke of Windsor. Platinum, white gold, white and yellow diamonds, a 152.35 carat Kashmir sapphire, sapphire. Cartier Collection. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Panther bangle, Cartier Paris, 1978. Cartier Collection. Photography: Marian Gérard for Cartier Collection © Cartier

Panthère Brooch, 1989. Cartier Collection. Photography: Marian Gérard for Cartier Collection © Cartier

Panthère Collar, 1990. Cartier Collection. Photography: Marian Gérard for Cartier Collection © Cartier

Crash wristwatch, made by Wright & Davies for Cartier London, 1967. Sapphire, gold, blued steel and leather strap. Cartier Collection. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Exhibition curators Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, said: “Cartier is one of the most famous jewellery houses in the world. This exhibition will explore how Louis, Pierre and Jacques Cartier, together with their father Alfred, adopted a strategy of original design, exceptional craftmanship and international expansion that transformed the Parisian family jeweller into a household name. With its world-class jewellery collection, the V&A is the perfect stage to celebrate the pioneering achievements of Cartier and its transformative ability to remain at the centre of culture and creativity for more than a century. We are excited to be able to share with visitors some of Cartier’s most famous creations as well as revealing previously unseen objects and archive material that further enriches our understanding of a jewellery house that continues to influence the way we adorn ourselves today.”

Exhibition Designer Asif Khan, said: “I wanted our collaboration to be a dreamscape where art and science converge, with Cartier’s pieces suspended in light, time and sound, allowing history to breathe and the future to linger."

Across three main sections the exhibition will explore the creativity of Cartier and the emergence of its signature style, the legacy of its technical ingenuity and craftsmanship, as well as its sophisticated approach to image-making and maintaining its legacy and relevance in a changing world. The exhibition will cast a light on the history of Cartier London and will culminate in a spectacular display of tiaras.

Desk Clock on Inkstand, 1908. Cartier Collection. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Tiara, Cartier Paris, 1908. Cartier Collection. Photography: Marian Gérard for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Diamond brooch, Cartier Paris, 1910. Acquired for the Victoria and Albert Museum by Dr Genevieve Davies, former Trustee of the V&A © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

Stomacher Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1913. Carved crystal, diamonds and platinum. Cartier Collection. Photography: Marian Gérard for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Model A mystery clock, Cartier Paris, 1914. Cartier Collection. Sold to Count Greffulhe. Rock crystal, agate, diamond, sapphire, enamel, gold, platinum with eight-day movement. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Scarab Brooch, Cartier London, 1925. Blue- glazed Egyptian faience with rubies, emeralds, citrine, diamonds, onyx, platinum and gold. Collection Cartier. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Sekhmet Brooch, 1925. Cartier Collection. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Orchid brooch (originally a head ornament), Cartier Paris, 1925. Onyx, diamonds, enamel and platinum, Collection Cartier. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Collection Cartier © Cartier

Tutti Frutti Bandeau, Cartier London, 1928. Made for Lady Mountbatten. On long-term loan to Victoria and Albert Museum. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1928. Restored in 1999-2002. Made as a special order for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. Cartier Collection. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Powder compact, Cartier Paris for Cartier London S department, 1930. Cartier Collection. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Necklace, Cartier London, special order, 1932. Sold to Lady Granard. Cartier Collection. Photography: Nils Herrmann for Cartier Collection © Cartier

Necklace, Cartier Paris, commissioned in 1934 by Barbara Hutton (1912-1979); 27 jadeite beads, platinum, gold, diamonds and rubies. Cartier Collection. © Cartier

Tiara, Cartier London, 1937. Aquamarine, diamonds and platinum. Cartier Collection. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Cartier Collection © Cartier

Brooch, manufactured by Cartier, 1941, London. Commissioned by Cartier London salesman Ernest Schwaiger for his wife, actor Adele Dixon. Diamonds and platinum © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Nail bangle, Cartier New York, 1971. Cartier Collection. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck for Cartier Collection © Cartier

Ring, Cartier, 2017, private collection. Photography: Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier

Necklace, Cartier, 2024. private collection. Photography: Maxime Govet © Cartier