Cristobal Balenciaga (French, founded 1949), Evening dress, 1968. Black and white silk gazar. Gift of Mrs. Ephraim London, Mrs. Rowland Mindlin & Mrs. Walter Eytan In Memory of Mrs. M. Lincoln Schuster. 78.134.6. The Museum at FIT 2012 © The Museum at FIT.

Perhaps no Balenciaga creation better epitomizes the couturier's brilliance than this dramatic, yet remarkably simple, evening dress. Made shortly before Balenciaga's retirement, the gown is crafted from stiff and unforgiving gazar, one of the most challenging fabrics. Using both the bias cut and delft seaming, the garment's sharply canted hemline allows the wearer to transform the silhouette into a perfect conical shape when in motion and, while standing, to let it fall in gracefully undulating waves. While Balenciaga noted that he retired due to a dearth of clients and materials, this masterpiece illustrates that the master reached a logical end to his experimentations. Perfection had been achieved.