Lot 82. Art Nouveau opal, emerald, diamond and enamel pendant/brooch, Henri Vever. Estimate CHF10,000–15,000 ($10,000–15,000). © Christie's Images Ltd 2019.

Cabochon and drop-shaped opals, fancy-cut emeralds, vari-cut diamonds, multi-coloured enamel, gold (French mark), circa 1900, pendant with detachable ftting for wear as a brooch, necklace 53.5 cm, pendant 6.6 cm, signed Vever, no. 2819, brooch ftting with maker's mark for Léon Gariod, brown Vever ftted case.

Literature: Cf. V. Becker, Art Nouveau jewelry, London, Thames & Hudson, 1985, p. 82 ill.108 for a similar pendant
Cf. G. Gregorietti, Jewelry through the ages, Milano, American Heritage Press, 1969, p. 287 for a similar pendant
Cf. S. Bury, Jewellery The International Era 1789-1910, Volume II 1862-1910, Woodbridge, Antique Collectors' Club, 1991, p. 621
for a similar brooch
Cf. Pariser Schmuck, Munich, Hirmer Verlag München, 1989, p.287-288 for a similar pendant

Note: Identical pendant/brooches by Leopold Gautrait have been illustrated in several jewellery books and form part of the permanent collection at the V&A museum of London. 

Lucien Léopold Gautrait was born in France in 1865. He worked in close collaboration with the jeweller Léon Gariod until the  beginning of the 1920s. Being considered a talented jewel designer, Gautrait worked with numerous jewellers of the Art Nouveau period, including Henri Vever.

Christie's. Magnificent Jewels, Geneva, 15 May 2019