Nearly 100 works illuminate Andrew Gn's global design vision in exhibition at Peabody Essex Museum
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The fashion designer in his retrospective exhibition at PEM, Andrew Gn: Fashioning the World. Photo by Kathy Tarantola/PEM.
SALEM, MASS.- The Peabody Essex Museum presents an exhibition that explores the fashion, art and creative philosophy of Singaporean designer and visual artist Andrew Gn. Making its North American debut, Andrew Gn: Fashioning the World illuminates the contemporary designer’s life and legacy, showcasing nearly 100 stunning works, including clothing, accessories, original illustrations and digital media. Reenvisioned at PEM from a 2023 retrospective in Singapore, and organized by PEM in collaboration with the Asian Civilisations Museum (ACM), Singapore, Andrew Gn: Fashioning the World is on view at PEM through February 16, 2026.
Boundless Creativity
Born in Singapore in 1964, Gn is a pillar of the global fashion community. After founding his Paris atelier in 1995, he produced more than 80 collections and 10,000 elegant ensembles that reference his own heritage as inspiration. The House of Andrew Gn is synonymous with opulence, intricate embellishment and luxurious craftsmanship. Gn is a also a visionary dressmaker and color virtuoso who is renowned for richly ornamented textiles, exquisite hand embroideries and surprisingly vibrant palettes. As a designer he merges artistic traditions, bold patterns and global cultural influences. Often called “demi-couture,” Gn’s ready-to-wear designs bear the quality and essence of haute couture with many elements designed in-house, including fabrics, embroideries, buttons and trimmings. This holistic design process reveals the exceptional artistry and craftsmanship that defined Gn’s brand.
“In the vibrant world of the House of Andrew Gn, boundless creativity and radical acceptance reign,” said Petra Slinkard, PEM’s Director of Curatorial Affairs and The Nancy B. Putnam Curator of Fashion and Textiles. “Gn’s presentations are designed to engage audiences with wonder, and his deliberate selection of motifs and art historical references reflects his own spirit of inclusivity. Gn does more than design clothing; he promotes an aesthetic and an ideology that celebrates cross-cultural exchange, beauty and technical precision.”
With the support of Gn’s longtime business partner Erick Hörlin du Houx, who joined the fashion house in 1998, the House of Andrew Gn prospered for 28 years. It is also one of the only fashion houses in Paris to have retained financial independence. Throughout Asia, Europe, the Middle East and North America, Gn’s exquisite high-end, ready-to-wear creations have adorned powerful women in politics, high society and the entertainment industry, such as Emma Stone, Janelle Monae, Beyoncé, Maggie Cheung, Kareena Kapoor Khan, Kit Chan, Lady Gaga, Lily Collins, Queen Rania of Jordan and the Princess of Wales.
Cross-cultural Exchange
Like Salem of the late 1700s, Singapore is a global port city with a rich history of layered cultural influences. In his work, Gn embraces a spirited amalgamation of popular culture, art history and varied motifs, inspired by Asian, South Asian and Middle Eastern aesthetics. Inspirations include imperial and export porcelain, textiles, batik, Iznik pottery and other forms of hybrid-designed material culture. Visitors to the exhibition can connect pieces from PEM’s world-renowned, historic collection to imagery reflected in Gn’s fashion.
With his varied ancestry, upbringing and education, Gn considers himself a citizen of the world. Both his father, Gn Yong Kiat, a Teochew immigrant from China, and his mother, Ang Gek Siang, a Peranakan Japanese Singaporean, encouraged their son to travel and to appreciate all things visually beautiful. Gn studied at Central Saint Martins in London, the Parsons School of Design in New York and Domus Academy in Milan. He later worked as an assistant to the French fashion designer Emanuel Ungaro.
Exhibition Highlights
PEM’s exhibition is divided into thematic sections highlighting the designer’s signature cross-cultural expressions and offering visitors a glimpse inside Gn’s studio, philosophy and unique approach to design thinking. Visitors are invited to consider the complexity of cultural and visual appropriation through the eyes of a designer with a cross-cultural background. The exhibition also explores Gn’s career trajectory, introducing visitors to his inspiration and influences as well as his personal connection to works in PEM’s collection. Through a behind-the-scenes look at his creative process, visitors will learn more about the artist’s global reach and the impact Singapore had on his work.
One highlight is a silk evening gown (look 21) from the Autumn/Winter 2021 collection. The work completely embodies Gn’s cross-cultural approach to design. The colorway and pattern both draw on the design of Chinese lacquer screens, which were, for centuries, sought-after luxury items in Europe and the United States. These screens often depict idyllic scenes of Chinese architecture and small groups of figures engaged in leisurely activities. European artists then reinterpreted the designs in later Chinoiserie iterations, including a fragment of a lacquered screen in Gn’s personal collection that served as his primary inspiration.
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Andrew Gn, Coromandel print satin silk caftan with embroidered trim and ostrich feathers, 2021. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Asian Export Art Gallery. Courtesy of the Peabody Essex Museum. Photography by Kathy Tarantola/PEM.
“PEM is thrilled to bring this stunning exhibition to our audience, in part because Andrew Gn’s designs reflect the ongoing cross-cultural conversation that’s been taking place at PEM for more than 200 years,” said Slinkard. “Echoing both Salem and Singapore’s histories as culturally rich port cities, Gn’s works display a convergence of Asian and Western influences, and feature reinterpretations of Asian cultures, including Chinese, Indian, Malay and Indonesian culture and his Peranakan heritage. Gn has said that his clothes are ‘European chic, American comfort, Chinese depth.’ We welcome loyal fans and design enthusiasts to explore the wonderful world of Andrew Gn.”
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Andrew Gn, Emerald crepe dress with satin bustier and black grosgrain bows, 2022. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, Gown in silk georgette Cherry blossoms print with cut out neckline, and belt in printed silk with embroidered motif, 2021. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, Fitted coat with fur collar and hand-made cord froggings, 2019. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, One shoulder dress with train, 18th century inspired brocade with multicolored strass embroidery appliqué, 2019. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, Flounce dress in "Villa d’Este” print with spiral ruffle-trimmed yoke and hem, 2019. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, Gold brocade dress with embroidery appliqué, clip earrings, and "Mini Brief" flap bag with golden embroidery, 2017. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, White, mint and synthetic coral patchwork triple crepe sleeveless shift dress with cherry blossom-inspired and Memphis-inspired appliqués, 2015. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, belted dress with brocade belt, and choker with synthetic pearls on black grosgrain, 2018. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, iris print jumpsuit with embroidered bouquet appliqué on bustier, and daisy earrings with purple rhinestones, 2021. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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Andrew Gn, Synthetic coral print silk georgette caftan with embroidered collar and tusk earrings, 2022. Promised gift of Andrew Gn. Peabody Essex Museum. Photo courtesy of House of Andrew Gn.
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PEM’s gallery installation of Andrew Gn: Fashioning the World. Photo by Kim Indresano/PEM.
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PEM’s gallery installation of Andrew Gn: Fashioning the World. Photo by Kim Indresano/PEM.
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'Andrew Gn: Fashioning the World' at Peabody Essex Museum. Detail of ensemble in the gallery. Photo by Kathy Tarantola/PEM.
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An object in PEM’s Asian Export Art gallery featuring flower motifs. Artists in Paris, Potpourri vase, about 1740. Chinese, Japanese, and French porcelain and French gilded bronze. Museum purchase, made possible by an anonymous donor, 1994. E84084.AB. Photo by Dennis Helmar.
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Detail of one of Andrew Gn’s designs in the gallery, featuring flower motifs. Photo by Kathy Tarantola/PEM.
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Petra Slinkard, Chief Curator and Nancy B. Putnam Curator of Fashion and Textiles, in Andrew Gn, Fashioning the World. Photo by Kathy Tarantola/PEM