A gem-set gold Turban Ornament (Jigha). North India, Mughal, 18th Century.  Photo Bonhams

set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds; the central panel in the form of an open work flower head with a central square cut emerald; the tapering aigrette comprising of a line of graduated emeralds with a leaf-shaped ruby border to the ruby finial and pearl,spinel and emerald bead drop; the reverse plain gold with a receptacle for a feather (kalgi) and two loops for securing the ornament, the gold stem tana to fit the ornament into a turban; 17cm. high. Estimate: £10,000 - 15,000, € 12,000 - 18,000

Provenance: Property of a Gentleman.

The jigha was worn exclusively by the emperor, his family and entourage. It was a symbol of royalty or royal favour and the presentation of a jigha indicated imperial approval. This elaborate creation evolved from the earlier Mughal practice of pinning a heron's feather or kalgi to the front of the turban. Attaching a pearl to the end of the plume so that it curved backwards gracefully was a style introduced by the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. During Emperor Shah Jahan's reign the simple plume underwent a transformation into an elaborate gem-studded creation incorporating some of the treasury's finest jewels. For further discussion on Turban Ornaments, see U Krishnan, Indian Jewellery: Dance of the Peacock, Mumbai 2001, pp.217-221.

Bonhams. Islamic and Indian Art, 24 Apr 2012. London, New Bond Street http://www.bonhams.com