Lot 933. Elegant 20.79 carat natural unheated Sri Lankan sapphire, cultured pearl and diamond clip brooch, Cartier, circa 1931. Estimate HKD: 5,500,000 - 6,800,000 (USD: 705,100 - 871,800). © 2019 China Guardian (HK) Auctions Co., Ltd.

The clip brooch set with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 20.79 carats, to an art décor mount embellished with variously-shaped diamonds, accented by square-cut cabochon sapphires, the diamonds and sapphires totalling approximately 6.70 and 3.70 carats respectively, signed and numbered 891939, mounted in platinum.

Gübelin reports numbered 12038253, dated 15 March 2012, stating the sapphire is approximately 21.00 carats, natural, Blue colour, Sri Lanka (Ceylon) origin, no indications of heating; and a Certificate of Authenticity from Cartier, dated 21 February 2012, stating that it is certified that the item illustrated and described on the certificate is a genuine Cartier item made in 1931. Specifications concerning the nature of the materials use (e.g. precious stones, hard stones and metals) are exclusively based on available information provided by Cartier's archives. No test (gemological or other) is carried out for the issuing of this certificate. Only this original certificate, without any alteration, and bearing an authorised signature as well as the seal in relief, guarantees the CARTIER authentication of the item described.

DREAM BOATS
Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by the jeweler Louis-François Cartier and it was later named 'The King of Jewelers, the King's Jeweler'.
In 1856, the niece of Napoleon I, Princess Mathilde, purchased Cartier's work and in 1904, Cartier became the official purveyor to King Alfonso XII of Spain and King Edward VII of England. Another milestone is that in 1910, Pierre Cartier refashioned the world's famous 'Hope' blue diamond and sold to a socialite. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor also purchased a platinum 'Panthère' brooch set with a 152.35-carat Kashmiri sapphire in Paris in 1949. Two decades later, Cartier sold a 69.42-carat pear-shaped diamond to Richard Burton, who gave it to Elizabeth Taylor as a gift and later was renamed the 'Taylor-Burton' diamond.
In 170 years, Cartier created many supreme works with its rich cultural heritage. The house also handled many of the world's most significant gemstones, bringing inspirations to Cartier's designers and craftsmen. Whilst Cartier's daring 'Panthère' collection has become a symbol of contemporary independent femininity, many of Cartier's classic designs still portray authority and orthodoxy referencing their comprehensive design archives. Each pieces of jewellery possess the essence of Cartier's passions and interpretation for its cultural significance. There is an evolutionary story behind each gemstone and if its crystallization defines the wondrous dream of mother-nature, the finest craftmanship will be the yacht that carries it to the eyes of the beholders. While preserving the glorified history and cultural significance, it inspires diverse creativity and broadens our imaginations for generations to come.

CARTIER'S PRIDE
– Art Deco
Lot 933 is a classic exemplar of understated yet luxurious piece by the renowned house of jewellery - Cartier. This classic and proportional setting wonderfully highlighted the superb beauty of this stunning sapphire, celebrating the golden era of European Royalties. The symmetry and proportion also showcased the essences of jewelry aesthetics and design of Art Deco era of the early 20th Century, crowning it with solemnity and prestige. The border highlighted by channel-set calibre-cut sapphires of saturated blue colour echoing with the brilliancy of diamonds, creating a striking contrast and a sense of vitality.
The main stone is an important natural 20.79-carat cushion-cut sapphire of Sri-Lankan origin, without heat treatment. The strongly saturated blue colour and the clarity of the sapphire are impeccable with its glassy crystal structure bringing out the fire and brilliance. Furthermore, the fine silks create a mesmerizing luster and glow in any tone of lighting. Such high-quality sapphire weighing up to 20.79 carats is a rare find in the market. In addition to Cartier's meticulous design and making, this piece is truly remarkable and highly collectible by gem connoisseurs.

China Guardian Hong Kong, Important Jewels and Jadeite, JW Marriott Hotel, 31 March 2019, 2 pm