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Alain.R.Truong
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18 février 2007

Museum Pieces : Fashion as art, from Armani to Margiela

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As if fashion won't be ubiquitous enough during the women's shows in Milan next week, a few of the city's galleries are mounting major retrospectives devoted to designers as artisans. First up is Giorgio Armani: Retrospective, a sprawling exhibit that fetes the hometown hero's 40-year career and features mountains of memorabilia and ephemera (i.e., sketches, inspirations, personal souvenirs) as well as different styles and takes on his signature suit. There's also a special section on his stints in costume design—think Richard Gere in American Gigolo and Shaft's iconic leather jackets—as well as his famous line-up of red-carpet gowns.

Across town (and a ways away on the design spectrum), there's Maison Martin Margiela: Artisanal Collection, at the Galleria Carla Sozzani. Among the 22 designs on display are several of the publicity-shy Belgian's most experimental pieces, including vests made from playing cards and jackets fashioned from ski gloves and fur hats, all laid out with otherworldly flourish by his personal curating team. "As the visitors enter the room," says Margiela rep Nadia Ciaccio, "they'll be confronted by shadows cast by the garments on white linen sheets. And only when the visitors pass to the other side of the sheet will they be able to see the work in the light."

Monica Khemsurov, www.men.style.com

Giorgio Armani: Retrospective, from February 20 through April 1, at the Triennale di Milano, Via Alemagna 6, Milan, 02-724341, www.triennale.it. Maison Martin Margiela: Artisanal Collection, through March 4, at Galleria Carla Sozzani, Corso Como 10, Milan, 02–653531, www.galleriacarlasozzani.org.

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