An onyx, coral, diamond and emerald penannular brooch, by Cartier, circa 1925

The open-ended polished onyx hoop, terminating in two carved coral chimerae, each embellished with single-cut diamond collar and mane and grasping an emerald bead within its mouth, to a cylindrical pin-head composed of a carved, ridged coral and onyx hoop bordered by single-cut diamonds and surmounted by an emerald bead, the pin guard designed as an inverse drop-shaped onyx section set between single-cut diamond roundels and with cabochon coral finial, signed Cartier Paris, French assay marks, partially indistinct maker's mark, length 8.8cm. Estimate: £25,000 - 30,000

Footnote: Cartier’s daring colour combinations were first presented in 1925 at the Paris Exhibition. Previous years had seen more simple combinations, such as diamonds and onyx, sometimes with a hint of colour. Never before had such strongly contrasting colours been combined and expressed on a single piece of jewellery. The most original and pronounced assortment of colours being the carved coral, emerald, diamond and onyx combination, of which this brooch is a fine example. The penannular brooch was a revival of the Iron Age Celtic design. Cartier redesigned it slightly by opening the ring, and using the sliding pin with bayonet clasp.

Literature: Rudoe, Judy ‘Cartier 1900-1939’, British Museum London, 1997, pp 208-210
Gabardi, Melissa ‘Art Deco Jewellery 1920-1949’, Antique Collectors Club, 1989, pp 77-90

(Copyright © 2002-2008 Bonhams 1793 Ltd., Images and Text All Rights Reserved)

Bonhams. Fine Jewellery, 24 Apr 2008. New Bond Street