Gold, enamel, gem-set and diamond brooch, Boucheron, circa 1890. Photo Sotheby's

Designed as a cicada, the articulated wings decorated with plique-à-jour enamel and calibré-cut sapphires, the abdomen and head set with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, further set with buff top sapphires, the eyes of cabochon cat's-eye chrysoberyl, French assay marks and maker's marks for Frédéric Boucheron, detachable brooch fitting, fitted case Boucheron, London, 130 New Bond Street. ESTIMATE 15,000-20,000 GBP. Lot Sold: 75,650 GBP

LITERATURE: Cf. Gilles Néret, Boucheron Four Generations of a World-Renowned Jeweler, Rizzoli, New York, page 24 

Cf: Henri Vever, translated by Katherine Purcell, French Jewellery of the Nineteenth Century, London, 2001, page 898

Cf: The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910, London, 1990, page 141, where similar Bumblebee and Cicada brooches by Boucheron are illutrated.

NOTE: Frédéric Boucheron (1830-1902) trained in Paris and soon became renowned for his highly imaginative and exquisitely crafted beautiful jewels. He selected the highest quality materials and had an expert eye for precious stones. Henri Vever believed that jewels which Boucheron designed, very few of his contemporaries would have dared to attempt to create. He founded the House of Boucheron in 1858 with the first shop opening in the Palais Royal, he studied nature from life and then experimented with techniques using plique-à-jour enamel several decades before it was made poplular by the Art Nouveau movement.

Sotheby's. Fine Jewels. Londres | 14 Dec 2011 www.sothebys.com