An eighteen karat gold and diamond "Double Longhorn" bangle bracelet, Paul Flato, Mexico City, circa 1980. Est. US$ 8,000 – 12,000. Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

NEW YORK, NY.- Works by the first jeweler to the stars, the infamous Paul Flato, will be included in Bonhams April 15 auction of Fine Jewelry at the Madison Avenue salesroom. Flato’s forward-thinking, whimsical creations were often worn on screen by devotees, and his impressive client list included Greta Garbo, Mae West, Rita Hayworth, Joan Crawford, Doris Duke, Ginger Rogers, Carmen Miranda, Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburn, and Gloria Vanderbilt. Flato was convicted of fraudulently pawning $100,000 in jewels in 1943 – a crime that sent him to Sing Sing penitentiary for 16 months. Upon his release he fled to Mexico City, fighting extradition charges for larceny and forgery, but eventually moving back to the US in 1953. 

Flato returned to Mexico City in the 1970s, opening a fashionable jewelry store and living quietly in the rich and inspiring culture for several decades. Bonhams will offer several of his creations from this period, including an eighteen karat gold and diamond “Double Longhorn” bracelet (est. $8,000-12,000), and a brass and eighteen karat gold cowbell necklace referencing the Mexican festival day for the Virgin of Guadalupe (est. $8,000-12,000). 

“These extraordinary pieces, acquired by a family friend and admirer of Flato, demonstrate his creative, witty and inventive sense of design,” said Susan Abeles, Bonhams US Head of Jewelry. “We’re seeing a renewed interest in bold, unique eighteen karat gold jewelry dating from the 1970s and 1980s.” 

Confident trend-setters looking for gold statement jewelry are sure to notice the 1970s eighteen karat gold and lapis lazuli pendant necklace on offer (est. $10,000-12,000), as well as the 1983 opal and eighteen karat gold necklace by Angela Cummings for Tiffany and Co. (est. $5,000-$7,000) – a necklace so bold, it could be worn in lieu of a scarf. A 1989 mother-of-pearl and diamond “Moonscape” eighteen karat gold bangle bracelet and ear clip set by Albert Lipten (est. $8,000-12,000), offered alongside the matching necklace (est.$12,000-15,000), are memorable for both their youthful pattern and celestial sparkle. 

An eighteen karat gold and opal necklace, Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co., 1983. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€3,900 - 5,500). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

the hinged torque designed as a wavy ribbon, centering an opal tablet; signed Cummings and Tiffany & Co., dated 1983, with signed box; gross weight approximately: 129.1 grams; interior length: 13 3/4in. 

A diamond and mother-of-pearl "Moonscape" necklace, Albert Lipten, 1989. Estimate US$ 12,000 - 15,000 (€9,400 - 12,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

A mother-of-pearl and diamond "Moonscape" bangle bracelet and ear clips, Albert Lipten, 1989. Estimate US$ 8,000 - 12,000 (€6,200 - 9,400). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

“Women today want jewelry that speaks to their individuality - whether amorphic or architectural, humorous or spiritual. It is fine jewelry that is meant to be worn,” explained Virginia Salem, Director of the Jewelry Department at Bonhams in New York. 

Additional classical highlights include a natural fancy yellow internally flawless diamond solitaire ring, weighing 15.45 carats (est. $280,000-380,000), a Harry Winston diamond solitaire ring, featuring a 4.35 carat pear shaped diamond, D color (est. $90,000-120,000), a ruby and diamond floral necklace (est. $80,000-100,000), and a 1929 Mauboussin art deco jadeite jade and diamond brooch centered by a cushion shaped diamond approximately 6.50 carat ($70,000-90,000). 

A fancy colored diamond and diamond solitaire ring. Estimate US$ 280,000 - 380,000 (€220,000 - 300,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

centering a modified rectangular-cut fancy yellow diamond, weighing 15.45 carats, with triangular-shaped diamond shoulders in a plain mount; estimated remaining diamond weight: 3.20 carats; mounted in platinum and fourteen karat gold; size 6. 

Accompanied by GIA report #14148813, dated January 7, 2013, stating the diamond as: natural fancy yellow, IF clarity.

A diamond solitaire ring, Harry Winston. Estimate US$ 90,000 - 120,000 (€70,000 - 94,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

centering a pear-shaped diamond, weighing 4.35 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds; signed Winston, with maker's mark JT for Jacques Timey of Harry Winston; mounted in platinum; size 5.

Accompanied by GIA report #1152316774, dated March 15, 2013, stating the central diamond as D color, VS1 clarity.

An art deco jadeite jade and diamond brooch, Mauboussin, 1929. Estimate US$ 70,000 - 90,000 (€55,000 - 70,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

designed as a jadeite jade flower pot carved with gourds and fruiting vines, centering a cushion-cut diamond among old mine, old European, and transitional-cut diamond flowers, accentuated by buff-top onyx and black enamel; unsigned, no. 025099; cushion-cut diamond weighing approximately: 6.35 carats; estimated remaining diamond weight: 5.10 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 2 1/2in. (loss to enamel)

Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Mauboussin, Paris, dated Feburary 19th, 2013, stating that the brooch was made in Paris, as a unique example, entered into Mauboussin's ledger on May 30th, 1929, under the number 025099.

Bonhams Fine Jewelry auction will take place April 15 in New York, immediately following a Prominent Private Collection of Fine Jewelry. The sale will preview April 5-7 at Bonhams Los Angeles, and April 11-15 at Bonhams New York.